Cancer Ribbon Filet Square Afghan

Cancer Ribbon Square Afghan

The above pattern is a derivative of Mary Maxim's Cancer Awareness Afghan (kit) designed by Cheri Jackson,  adapted with permission from Mary Maxim.
 

Scarf patterns for Knit Your Bit (scarves sent to veterans)

Most of these patterns have been revised 2011. Patterns for all years are available at the WWII Museum web site .

2010 crochet pattern (#5) uses a FPtrcr (front post triple crossed stitch). I have a tutorial to help you out if you have problems.

2010 Crocheted Seaman's Scarf by Sandie Petit
Two versions are given here.
 

photos from previous version in blue

2009 pattern was a chevron

 DC Chevron in two and three chevron versions

Photos below are for the ripple version - narrow, wider, and single crochet (sc pattern version is a wonderful pattern by Kimberly Guise)

DC Wide Ripple
DC Narrow Ripple

2008 pattern by Rachel Vives is pattern 3 at WWII Museum web site - it is straight sc so you can chain however many you want. Your row will contain 1 less than the total you chained.



 If you would like to make this in dc, you might like to use the same color sequence in this combination.

I chained 210 with an H hook (giving 208 dc on row) with finished size 7 1/2" x 67 1/2"
3 rows dc in green
2 rows dc in gold
1 row each of white, red, green, red, white
2 rows dc gold
3 rows dc green
I worked sc along both ends to give a finished look.

2007 pattern: V for Victory Scarf
Original Pattern written for the museum by Rachel Vives (2007), revisions by Sandie Petit (with permission)

   

Puff Victory Scarf (adaptation of above V for Victory)

Original 2006 pattern was single crochet, rewritten in pattern format here by Sandie
DC version is by Sandie

SC Striped Scarf
DC Striped Scarf
 

Patterns for needy babies and children

Patterns for Preemies (samples use colors of the Wordless book)

Baby Love and Prayers Afghan

Nonyghan pattern
(based on the patterns below and adapted with permission)
Suzy Rigby Baby's First Teddy Bear
Aunt B Teddy Bear Blanket
Pat Liles Bearghan

Prayer Cloths

The idea here is to pray for the recipient as you work. When the person touches or views the cloth, he or she will be reminded of God's infinite power, wisdom and love, and that they have been loved and prayed for by you. You can do this even if you do not know who will receive your cloth. Just pray for the recipient -  God knows who will get it before you've even finished the prayer cloth. :-)

Remember that the cloth itself, the yarn, the crocheting are not endowed with any special power. Only God can answer prayer. In His infinite wisdom His answer may be yes, no, or wait. If there is healing, peace, or protection it is because God answers our prayers in the affirmative. It is important to realize that it is not the cloth itself that gives the comfort or healing, but the power of Almighty God.

Special Note:
If making a prayer cloth for a person in the military, choose appropriate colors (no neons, pinks, white, but rather choose brown, charcoal grey, black, navy, dark green. tan, olive... Check with the contact person or charity coordinator to find out what colors are currently acceptable.)

100% Wool is needed for troops in harm's way (acrylic will melt in a firefight and cause further damage), but other materials (and colors) are okay for wounded in hospitals.

If you don't know if your yarn is wool or acrylic, here's a test from Crochet World:

If your yarn becomes separated from the original labels, and you're not sure if it's wool or acrylic, here's an easy method to find out. Burn the end of the yarn with a match. If the burn brushes off and leaves only a scorch, the yarn is wool. If the end of the yarn turns black and hard, it's acrylic.

Here is a little note that I enclose with my own cloths:

Please accept this pocket prayer cloth as a reminder of God’s love and care for you. May God hold you in His arms and give you comfort in times of trouble. May He keep you safe in times of danger. Know that you are in my thoughts, in my heart and in my prayers. Thank you for the sacrifices you and your family make to keep me and my family safe and free.

Sandie's Filet & Puff Stitch Prayer Cloths in pdf format

Sandie's Filet Prayer Cloth

Size: depends on hook, but try to make pocket cloths no larger than 4” x 5”

Materials: G or H hook (or whatever size goes with the yarn you chose), smallish ball of yarn, worsted weight gives the size listed but you can actually use any weight if size doesn't matter (check with coordinator for the requirements for their charity effort)

Time commitment: about 20 minutes

Note: If you prefer to have all the “holes” the same size, ch one less and do (ch 1, sk 1) instead of (ch 2, sk 2)

ch 16 (or 15 - see note above)
Row 1: dc in fourth chain from hook and in ea chain across. ch 2, turn. (14 dc)
Row 2: dc in ea of next 5 dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in ea of next 6 dc (including tch), ch 2, turn
Row 3-5: repeat row 2
Row 6: dc, (ch 1, sk 1, dc) twice, ch 2, sk 2, dc, (ch 1, sk 1, dc) twice, dc in tch, ch 2, turn
Row 7: (dc in next dc and in next ch-1 sp) twice, dc in next dc, ch 2, sk 2 chains, (dc in  next dc and in next ch-1 sp) twice, dc in last two stitches, ch 2, turn.
Row 8: repeat row 2
Row 9: dc in each st across, working 2 dc in ch-2 sp

You will end on right side. With either same yarn, or contrasting color, work border on this side.

Border: ch 1, sc around, working (sc, hdc, sc) OR (sc, ch 2, sc) in corners (whatever keeps your corners from curling). Work 2 sc in post of each dc along side and 1 sc in each stitch along top and bottom. If your work does not lie flat, try using a hook one size smaller for border.

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Sandie's Puff Stitch Prayer Cloth

Materials: same as filet
Size: depends on hk

Special Stitch:
Puff Stitch: yo, insert hk in next sc, yo,pull through (3 lps on hk), yo, insert hk in same sc, yo and pull through (5 lps on hk), yo, insert hk in same sc, yo and pull through (7 lps on hk), yo and pull through all 7 loops.

Note: The puffy part will be on the wrong side. That's okay. Work your border on that side.

Instructions:
ch 14
Row 1: sc in second chain from hk and in ea chain across. ch 1, turn. (13 sc)
Row 2: sc in ea of next 6 sc, puff st in next sc, sc in ea of next 6 sc, ch 1, turn
Row 3: sc across, ch 1, turn
Row 4-9: repeat rows 2 and 3
Row 10: sc in ea of first 2 scs, (puff, sc) 5 times, sc in last sc, ch 1, turn
Row 11: sc across, ch 1, turn
Row 12-15: repeat rows 2 and 3
You will end on wrong side. That is where you want to work your border.

Border: same as filet
 

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Kaye Rogers' Prayer Cloth Pattern in pdf format

Prayer Cloth
©2008 Kaye Rogers
If you have questions about this pattern, please contact the designer, tendermother AT yahoo DOTcom

Materials:
G or H size hook, depending on the yarn you use
4 ply yarn, a 4 ounce skein will make several prayer cloths.

Instructions:
Chain 10 if you crochet loosely
Row 1: Half double crochet in 2nd stitch from hook and in each stitch across. Chain 1 (9 hdc)
Row 2-10: Half double crochet in each stitch across.  Chain 1 (9 hdc)

Edging:
Chain 6, slip stitch in end of row.  Repeat until prayer cloth has this edging

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Need someplace to send your prayer cloth? Try this site. I am not involved with the group, but found it on the net. I suggest e-mailing them before sending.

Simple Chemo Caps
 c2007 Sandie Petit, http://www.crochetcabana.com

Here is how to make simple chemo caps. You can adjust for your yarn type by using a smaller or larger hook and changing number of rounds. Use soft yarn for chemo caps. I suggest using a more closed in pattern since they have no hair beneath.
 

1) Begin with a ring. Use either an adjustable ring, or ch-5 and join to make a ring.
2) ch 2 or 3 for height, and work 11 more dc into the ring for a total of 12 dc.
3) ch 2 or 3 for height and work 2 dc in each stitch around (including the stitch where you chained up).

4) After that you can either continue to increase 12 stitches evenly each round for a more flat topped hat, or you can increase by 6 evenly each round for a more gradual slope. Either way, when your hat is the size you want it, stop increasing and work just one dc in each stitch.

Border Round: Use your imagination! I have a number of borders (edgings) you can use here.
 

Extra notes: To increase by 12, you need to count the number of stitches in your round, divide by 12 and increase in that stitch. In other words, say you have 36 stitches. 36 divided by 12 is 3. So you would increase (work 2 dc) in each 3rd stitch.
If you want to increase by 6, it is the same. Just divide 36 by 6 and increase in the 6th stitch.

See? Easy.

 

Still confused? See my tutorial on working in the round featuring hats.

Hats for the Homeless

Bulky Men's Hat (pdf file)

The intent of this hat is to make it nice and toasty warm for those who live on the streets. You work the first row of brim in front loop only (FLO) and then flip over at that point. Essentially it is like wearing two hats at once, quite warm.

Bulky Men’s Hat
c2010. rev 2011 Sandra Petit
http://www.crochetcabana.com

Materials:
Hook: size L (#11, 8mm)
Yarn: depends on which hat you make but I suggest purchasing 2 skeins (about 7 ozs). This amount will work with worsted or bulky yarn.
Picture on left uses Mode Dea Tweedle Dee Shaded Effect Surf and Turf yarn. Picture on right uses Loops and Threads Charisma color Ashes

Note: Instead of (ch 1, dc in same stitch), you can use the more commonly seen ch 2 or ch 3 for height

Instructions:
All rounds will be worked on right side.

Make adjustable ring (or ch 4 and join into a ring).
Rnd 1: chain 1, work 12 dcs in the center ring, join with a slip stitch to first dc (12 dcs). You can close the hole of your adjustable ring now.

Rnd 2: ch 1, work 2 dcs in same stitch, then work 2 dc in each stitch around, (24 stitches), join with a slip stitch to first dc.

So far we've done just a normal increase to keep a round piece flat in dc. Now we will start a gradual slope. You want to increase, but you don't want it to lie flat. An increase of 12 stitches each round makes it lie flat, so we're going to increase by only 6 stitches. 24 divided by 6 is four, so we need to place our increase at the 4th stitch. Note that the increase of each round will be placed in the second stitch of the increase of the previous round. That is how you can tell if you are making your increase in the correct spot.

Rnd 3: ch 1, work 1 dc in same st, then work 1 dc in each of the next 2 stitches, work 2 dc in next stitch (that's your increase), (dc in each of the next 3 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch) around (5 more times) (30 stitches), join with a slip stitch to first dc

We're going to do another gradual increase. You now have 30 stitches. 30 divided by 6 is 5. We want our increase in every 5th stitch for the next round.

Rnd 4: ch 1, work 1 dc in same st, dc in each of the next 3 double crochets, 2 dc in next stitch, (dc in ea of the next 4 dcs, 2 dc in next stitch) around (5 more times), (36 stitches), join with a slip stitch to first dc

You now have 36 stitches. 36 divided by 6 is 6. We want our increase in every 6th stitch for the next round.

Rnd 5: ch 1, work 1 dc in same st, dc in each of the next 4 double crochets, 2 dc in next stitch, (dc in ea of the next 5 dcs, 2 dc in next stitch) around (5 more  times) (42 stitches) join with a slip stitch to first dc

You now have 42 stitches. 42 divided by 6 is 7. We want our increase in every 7th stitch for the next round.

Rnd 6: ch 1, work 1 dc in same st, dc in each of the next 5 double crochets, 2 dc in next stitch, (dc in ea of the next 6 dcs, 2 dc in next stitch) around (5 more times) (48 stitches) join with a slip stitch to first dc

Check to see if hat is appropriate size. If it is too small, work Rnd 7. If the hat is the size you want, skip round 7 and go to Rnd 8. (My husband found it snug, but usable when I stopped at this point.)

Rnd 7: ch 1, work 1 dc in same st, dc in each of the next 6 double crochets, 2 dc in next stitch, (dc in ea of the next 7 dcs, 2 dc in next stitch) around (54 stitches) join with a slip stitch to first dc

Rnd 8: ch 1, work 1 dc in same st, dc in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch to first dc. You will have 48 or 54 stitches on this round depending on if you worked Round 7 or not. (If you've worked both Rnds 7 and 8 your hat should be approx. 9" from top of hat to rim at this point.)

Note: If you are working the double thickness, you might like to mark where you start working the dc rounds for counting purposes. The rounds previous to this were smaller. When you work your double thickness, you might like to stop where you start working even though you can choose to make a smaller brim.

Rnd 9-14: Repeat row 8, working dc in each stitch.
 
If you skipped 7, you will have 13 rows at this point. Hat should be at least 8" from top of hat to bottom of last row worked if this is for a man. Hat should fit just below the ears on the person for whom you are making the hat.

This is the actual "hat" portion. The rest of the work is the upturned brim.

For double thickness:
Rnd 14/15 (depending on whether you worked Rnd 7 or not): working into FLO (front loop only) work one round of dc. This is the point at which you will turn up your brim

Rnd 15/16-20/21: working through both loops, continue working dc rounds.

Finish off as follows:
At end of last round pull yarn through last stitch, thread in large eye needle, Insert hook in first single crochet (it will be to your left) (NOT the ch-1), from front to back, through BOTH loops, then bring strand around and insert in back loop only of last single crochet made, from front to back (but only through the back loop). Weave threads in. You should not be able to tell where you finished off. This is a slightly altered version of the invisible finish off.

Sew in all tails. Pull up hat brim at the FLO round which gives a double thickness for greater warmth.

For single thickness:
SC Brim:
Rnd 13-16 (sc brim): ch 1, single crochet in next stitch and in each stitch around, join with sl st to first sc. This should cover the head and go over the ears.

Extra note: I find that the ch-1 to bring up to height in sc confuses where your first sc is, so I don’t do it. I join with a sl st to the beg sl st on ea round. Since I am only working 3 rounds, the difference in height is not a big issue. If you decide to make more rounds, however, you might want to have that extra height. You could conceivably work in a spiral with no join which would also work.


To work hat pattern with worsted weight yarn
Work hat pattern as above except you will need more increase rounds. Work to 72 stitches, then work even until hat measures about 8" for a man (approx to 16 rounds), then work your FLO round and continue as above.

In general, a man's hat should be about 22 to 24" around and at least 8" long. If you are used to making baby or children's hats, this will look absolutely huge to you, but it will fit a man.

Ocean Tide Scarf
©2010 Sandra Petit

Materials: Red Heart Super Saver 512 Turqua and 886 Blue or preferred two colors in any worsted weight yarn, J hook

Gauge (not critical for this project): Pattern is 14 rows, about 4 1/2”, width is 6”

Size: 6” x 58”

Note: You can use ch-3 as your turning chain if you need to do so to get up to the proper height

Note2: You will change color every 2 rows, but do not need to cut yarn. You can carry unused strand along the side. Of course if you want to, you can cut yarn 6” from end to be taken care of later.

Multiple: 3 + 1

Instructions:
With Turqua, ch 19
Row 1: dc in 4th chain from hook and in each chain across, ch 2, turn (17 dc)

Row 2: dc in ea dc across, change to Blue, do not cut yarn—carry unused color up side, ch 2, turn

Row 3-4: with Blue, dc in ea dc across, change to Turqua, ch 2, turn.

Row 5-6: With Turqua, dc in ea dc across, change to Blue, ch 2, turn

Row 7: With Blue, dc in next st (not the one under the tch, but the next one), (FPdc around next dc, dc in ea of next 2 dc) across, ch 2 turn

Row 8: dc in next st (not the one under the tch, but the next one), (BPdc around next FPdc, dc in ea of next 2 dc) across, change to Turqua, ch 2 turn

Row 9-10: dc in ea dc and FPdc across, change to Blue, ch 2, turn

Row 11-12: dc in ea dc and FPdc across, change to Turqua, ch 2, turn

Row 13-14: dc in ea dc and FPdc across, change to Blue, ch 2, turn

Rows 15—end: repeat Rows 7-14 eleven times, on last row change to blue and ch 1 (rather than 2) to begin edging

Edging: With blue, sc around, covering the carried yarn along the side and using 3 sc in corners

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For additional scarf patterns, see above