I wish I had someone sitting here with me to show me how to do these stitches. Short of that, what can I do?

Check out videos at YouTube or any other place where folks can upload videos. I have begun placing short videos on tutorial pages and I have a group of them on a separate video page here. I also have a channel at YouTube that contains all the videos I've made. Check them out at http://www.youtube.com/user/CrochetCabana

What is the Golden Loop?

When you insert your hook into a stitch, you yarn over and pull through. The loop that you pull through is called the Golden Loop. To make your stitch longer, you pull it up higher. The important thing is to continue bringing it to the same height throughout your piece. Once you get the hang of it it's really not difficult.

This concept is very handy when trying to achieve a particular gauge in your work.

What does it mean to work on opposite side of chain?

When you work into a foundation chain you can do it in several different ways, but no matter which way you choose, you will have at least one loop left under your stitch. If you are told to work on opposide side of chain, what they mean is that when you get to the end of the row, you will make additional stitches at the end to make the turn, just as you would make a corner on a square if you were working a border. Then you will continue working around, placing your stitches into the loop that remained on that first row. Here is a picture that demonstrates what I mean. Please excuse the upside down 22. In this pattern, I chained 10, then worked 5 sc into the 2nd chain from hook. That will be the end stitch for that side. Then I continued with stitches 6 to 12, working a sc in each chain. #13, 14, and 15 are my end stitches for that side, then #16 to 22 are worked in the leftover loop from stitches 6-12. Get it?

How do I measure squares?

Excellent question. When you must work a square to size, you measure horizontally and vertically. Never measure diagonally. This will not give you the size you want. I suggest using a hard ruler, not a flexible measuring tape.

You can make a cardboard or paper template easily enough. A hint from Christal: If you use paper, cut out a square 12" x 12". If you fold it in half and then in half again, you will have a 6" square. So you can use it for both, and it is small so you can carry it with you. If you want a less flexible piece, use cardboard or posterboard. You could even use tile if you have one the proper size.

CORRECT - Measure horizontally - CORRECT

CORRECT - Measure vertically - CORRECT

WRONG - Measure diagonally - WRONG

Here is the video demo of measuring a square or rectangle.

How do I work the corners?

Usually, you put more stitches into your corners to make the turn and "square" that corner - that is unless you WANT a rounded corner, of course. It is usually 3 or more stitches - although an odd number is important especially if you intend to join that square to others. Sometimes adding chains helps. For example, if I am working in dc, I might put (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc). It gives more of a square appearance than the traditional 3 stitches. If I am working in sc, it might be (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) or (sc, ch 2, sc) or (2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc). Another option for the corner turn might be to use a longer stitch in the middle such as (sc, hdc, sc) or (dc, tr, dc). That will give you a bit more height in the actual corner.

If this is the final round of your edging, you should feel free to work it in whatever manner gives you the desired effect. In other words, even if your pattern calls for a particular corner option, if you find that makes your work curl, or you find the corner rises above the remainder of the row, you should not hesitate to change it. Of course if you are working an edging that has a pattern, like shells or picots, then you will want to get that effect in your corners as well.

So, to summarize, some options you might consider for your corners include:

    Corner Options:

1) 3 stitches in each corner - This is the option many patterns choose.

2) (sc, ch 2, sc) - add chains between stitches. This is a nice picot look for borders as well.

3) (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) - more square corner

4) (2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc) - more square corner

5) (sc, hdc, sc) or (dc, tr, dc) - use a longer stitch as the corner stitch

6) (sc, ch 1, sc, ch 1, sc)

7) (sc, ch 1, sc)

Some edgings do not require a change in the corner. When I'm working a faux picot (sc, ch 2, sc, sk 1) I might just go around without making any additional change, depending on the pattern. Sometimes I might add an extra couple of stitches there - for example (sc, ch 2, sc, ch 2, sc, sk 1) might be an option and still keep the same look.

What do those skill level terms mean?

The designer of the pattern determines what skill level he or she chooses to put on it, if any. I normally don't put skill levels on my patterns though I have on a few of them. This is particularly because it means different things to different people. One of the ladies on a crochet list I belong to, crochet designer Bendy Carter (author of Crochet on the Edge), posted her ideas and I really liked them. I think she and I agree on what constitutes beginner and experienced crocheters. She has given permission for me to post these and you can find them on the Reading Patterns page. Note that this is not an "official" standing. These are just her (and my) opinion, a general guide for those who would like one. You might also remember that being ABLE to do something and wanting to do it or wanting to take the time to mess with it are not the same thing. You might have the skill to do it, but it may not be something you are interested in doing.

What does 2tog mean?

Usually this means to do a decrease in whatever stitch is specified. For example, sc2tog is a single crochet decrease. You single crochet two stitches together. Insert hook into st, yo and draw up a loop. Insert hook into next st, yo and draw up a loop. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Another example is dc2tog which is more common. This means double crochet two together or make a double crochet decrease.

You might also see dc3tog or dc4tog or any other number and using any other stitches. It is simply a decrease meaning to decrease over that many stitches.

How to do a decrease in the various stitches appears elsewhere on site on the decrease pages.

Here is a video demonstrating 2tog for sc and dc stitches. It also includes 3tog for the dc.

My pattern calls for XX yarn and I have XX. Can I substitute the yarn I have for the yarn I need? They are both #4 worsted weight yarns. Are they are equal?

Short answer: Maybe. If it is the same thickness as the yarn called for in the pattern.

If size is not a consideration in the pattern - say it's a scarf and it doesn't matter if it's a little off in size - then yes you can substitute any #4 worsted, just know that the size may be slightly off what is noted in the pattern.
If size IS a consideration, make a swatch and see if you get the gauge listed in the pattern.

Here is a video showing small swatches made with different hooks but the same yarn, and different yarn with the same hook.

Here are some tips for knowing what kind of yarn you actually have before you start out and figuring out if your yarn will play well with other yarns you are using in a project.
If you don't use up all the yarn you've purchased for a project, it is always wise to keep the wrapper with the leftover so you will know what the yarn is. However, if you don't have it, there are several things to consider. If your yarn contains wool, you want to know that because some people are allergic to wool and some charities will not accept objects made with wool.

There are at least two ways of telling if your yarn is wool or acrylic.
1) take a tiny snip of yarn, light it with a match. If it smells like burning hair, it's wool. If it smells like plastic, it's acrylic.
2) put a few inches of yarn in a small jar of chlorine bleach. If it's wool it will dissolve. If it is acrylic it won't. If it is a blend, it will look like part of it has dissolved.

Other than the material it is made of, you might be concerned with the weight of your yarn. This can be done by feel and sight. Does it look like it is the same thickness and pliability as the others? If you have the label, of course, you can see if it is worsted or fingering or bulky, but not all worsted weight yarns are the same either. Use your common sense. If it is obviously thinner than the others, and that is not your intent, then don't use it.

Let me give an example from one of my blog posts. I decided to make two scarves using the same pattern but two different yarns. I chose Wool Ease and Vanna's Choice, both #4 worsted weight yarns.

Wool Ease comes in a 3 ounce, 197 yard, 85g skein (for solids). Vanna's Choice comes in a 3.5 ounce, 170 yard, 100g skein. Wool Ease is a thinner yarn which weighs less than Vanna's Choice, even though both are worsted weight #4 yarns.

If you look at the gauge posted on the manufacturer web site, you'll see ...
Wool Ease - Crochet: 13.2 sc + 16 rows = 4" (10 cm) on size J-10 (6mm) hook
Vanna's Choice - Crochet: 12 sc + 15 rows = 4" (10 cm) on size J-10 (6 mm) hook

So you get more stitches with Wool Ease than Vanna's Choice. That said, your project will be thinner. That may or may not matter to you since wool is pretty warm regardless and WE solid is 80% wool.

When I made these scarves, I had about 50 yards of the Wool Ease left and used the entire two skeins of Vanna's Choice plus a little from a third skein. So this same scarf took not quite 6 ounces of Wool Ease, but it took a bit over 7 ounces of Vanna's Choice. You can see that although this doesn't make a lot of difference in a scarf, it would make a great deal of difference in a sweater or other clothing item. If you are making squares, it would also make a difference in the finished size of your square. You can't just choose a pattern and make it over and over in different yarns and expect it to come out the same size.

I have created a chart using four brands of yarn (Lion Brand, Red Heart, Bernat, and Patons), just as a starting point, and compare them by weight, as given on the manufacturer's web site. The chart is on the Yarn Yak page. Go to Yarn Equivalents.

Also, some of the manufacturer web sites have yarn equivalent charts and sometimes programs that will tell you which of THEIR yarns can be substituted for another. The only ones I've seen have concerned their own yarns, not comparing their yarn to another company's. What I mean is if you have Lion Brand Jamie Classic (Acrilan acrylic), and you want to substitute another yarn, it will give you a list of other Lion Brand yarns that match that one. Like Pound of Love, which is another acrylic worsted weight yarn.

I have just found the perfect pattern, chosen my colors and bought my yarn only to get home and find it calls for a G hook and I don’t have one. Can I use an H?
Of course you can. However, your project may not turn out the size it says in the pattern and you may not have the right amount of yarn. Check your pattern BEFORE buying your yarn. Keep in mind that some things are made to fit. If it’s an afghan then the size is easily adjusted but what if it’s a sweater and has to fit a certain person? If you are making a fitted item, you probably need to check gauge if you want it to fit. You might just need a different size hook anyway to get your gauge right. Also, if it’s an afghan, bigger is probably better. :-) BUT you will need more yarn and you need to get all the yarn in the same dye lot. This is important as there IS a difference in dye lots, even in the no-dye-lot brands - trust me. Hee hee. Sometimes you'll luck out, but it's better to be sure. In many projects the size hook you use won’t matter, but it will make a difference in how much yarn you need, how much time it takes to make, and how large or small it turns out.  Note: G hooks are not all the same! Hooks made by different manufacturers may be a different size even if they use the same letter notation. I found a wonderful chart which you should print and keep with your hook stash! Go to Crochet Musings.
 

I love this <insert item> but it is knitted and I only know how to crochet. Can I still work the pattern? How? (5-12-05)

This subject is too deep to fully discuss in a FAQ, but here's a bit of basic info. According to Ehow.com (shared with permission) one row of knit and one row of purl equals one row of sc. Three rows of knitting (k, p, k) equals one row of hdc. Four rows of K, P, K, P would be one row of dc. Six rows of stockinette stitch equals one row of tr.

If you are interested in getting into this topic more deeply, you might consider investing in a book such as From Needles to Hook Complete Guide to Converting Knit Patterns to Crochet by Donna Scott, The Needlecraft Shop.

It is possible to get a similar look in crochet to a knitted pattern, though your stitches will still be crochet stitches. Annie's Attic has a mail series that does just that. I think it is the Hook and Needle Club. They send you a pattern which is worked in both knit and crochet at intervals throughout the year.

My pattern says to work in "same stitch". What does that mean?

Good question. Well, they're all good questions. :-) To work in "same stitch" means exactly that. Wherever you worked the last stitch, work the next stitch or stitches into that very same place. It might be a group of stitches. For example, it might say "dc in next stitch, ch 2, (dc, ch 2, dc) in same stitch". That means you will place a (dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc) all in one stitch. Of course, this could have been worded many ways, but I'm using this as an example of the term "same stitch".

Here is a video showing where to place your hook when working in the same stitch.

 My pattern is worked in rounds, not rows. What does that mean? And how do I make it bigger and still have it lie flat?

Working in rounds means that you will be going in a circle rather than working right to left or left to right in rows. Each round will either be joined, or you will continue to work in a spiral effect. I have a tutorial on working a spiral elsewhere on site. The granny square is worked in the round. I have a tutorial on the granny square and other shapes as well. Sometimes working in the round will result in a circular shape. Other times it will be worked into a square after the first few rounds, but you will still continue to increase outwards rather than upwards.

My pattern says to "skip one chain" or "skip next stitch" or "skip next sc". What does that mean?

Depending on the publisher, this might be worded "miss one chain" or "miss one sc" rather than "skip". What this means is that instead of making your stitch into the next stitch, you pass over that one. You skip it. You don't work anything into it. Your next stitch will go into the stitch following that one. In other words, you work a stitch, you do not work a stitch in the next stitch, and you make your next stitch in the stitch following that one.

Often, you will be told to chain a number of stitches, depending on how many you are told to skip. For example, if you are skipping one, then most likely you will have to chain 1. Not always, but often.

My pattern says to "dc in the top ch of the tch". What does that mean?
When working in dc, once you get to the end of your row you need to chain up to bring your next row to the correct height. For some people, this means to chain 2, for other it means to chain 3. Even if your pattern says to chain 3, if you know that for you (if you work loosely or for whatever reason) chaining 2 would bring your row to the right height, then YOU should chain 2. That chain, which is your turning chain (tch) becomes the first dc of the next row.

When you get to the end of that next row, your last stitch will be the tch from the previous row. Your pattern is telling you that you need to put your last dc in that turning chain (tch).

Here's pics to illustrate. In the first picture I made my first dc in the fourth chain from hook of my foundation chain. So the tch is those first 3 chains. I find I have to sort of turn it to "face front" before I make my last stitch.

1) In the picture below, you can see the last "dc" which is the turning chain (tch). The arrow illustrates where to place your hook to make the last dc, and the next picture shows the hook in place.

2) Here below you can see the completed stitch.

Here is a brief video on the turning chain.

My pattern says to "work a dc in next space..." What do they mean by "space"? OR My pattern says “dc in next ch-2 sp”?

Another excellent question and one which I get very often. What this instruction doesn’t mean is to make a chain and then subtract 2. Get it? Chain minus two? :-) If you thought that, don’t feel bad. It means you’re math minded.
It also doesn't mean "dc in next chain, and then make 2 spaces. The "ch" when followed by a hyphen is considered one word. It is not "ch" and "2", but rather "ch-2". (Or 1 or 3 or however many)
And a space is well, a place with nothing in it.

When a pattern wants you to make a chain stitch, it will say “ch 1”, with no hyphen. When the pattern says “ch-1” or “ch-2” it is usually referring to chains which have already been made, not chains that you are being told to make at that time. It is often accompanied by “sp”. In other words, your pattern might say:

dc in next ch-2 sp
In this case, you are holding your hook and looking at the previous row (the row in which you are making your new stitches). The next thing on your row is 2 chains. The chains make a little space between your previous dc and your next dc. The designer wants you to put the stitches into the space made by the 2 chains. See pic below.

1) Here is the space made on the first row by a (ch 2, sk 2) note: a space can be made by chaining or skipping any number of stitches. Your pattern will specify

2) Placing the hook into the space to make a double crochet note: you will then yo, pull yarn through the hole and continue your dc, working over the loop created by your chains

3) this pic shows the actual dc made in the space on the first row and a second space created by chaining 2 on the third row

This terminology (a number with a hyphen) might also be used to join with a slip stitch in top of beginning ch-3. This means that when you get to the end of your present row or round, you are back at the ch-3 you made first to start your row or round. You need to join to this ch-3 to complete this round, so you can go up to the next. You look at that ch-3 and the top stitch is where you want to place your hook and join with a slip stitch. If you began your work with a ch-2, same thing applies.

To find out what all the other abbreviations mean, go to the section entitled Reading Patterns.

My pattern says to "ch 1, turn". How do you turn your work?
This is also an excellent question. Many books don't tell you HOW to turn. They just tell you to do it. So I'm going to tell you HOW to do it. At least I'll try. When I get to the end of a row or round, I chain up to get to the proper height and then I push my square or project away from me and turn it clockwise. The Crochet Stitch Bible says you can turn either clockwise or counter-clockwise as long as you are consistent. My personal preference is clockwise. Just give it a push away from you and catch it up with your left hand. Is that helpful?

Special circumstance - If you are working with more than one strand, the turning issue becomes more complicated. You will have to handle this on a case by case basis. Try to keep your strands separated, either in a container that holds several skeins, made for that purpose, or in plastic ziploc bags or empty, clean, 2-liter bottles. Anything to help in moving those skeins around so they don't get tangled. You  may want to turn your work one way on the first row and the other way on the second to keep your skeins from getting tangled.

Here is a video demonstration of turning your work.

I want to make this pattern larger or smaller. How can I do that? Can I use the multiple thing?
An easy way to adjust pattern size is to adjust the hook size or to change the kind of yarn you are using. For example, if you want a smaller piece and the pattern calls for a K hook, just use a G or anything smaller than a K, adjusted down to the size you want. If you want a larger piece, you can use a larger hook and 2 strands of yarn.

On the other hand, if the pattern calls for 4-ply, worsted weight yarn and you want a smaller piece, then you can use sport weight or fingering weight yarn. If you want a larger piece, then you can use chunky weight or two strands of worsted (or even more).

Also, keep in mind that the same weight yarn in different brands may work up differently. Notice the gauge notation on the yarn label. Many will give you the number of stitches within a particular size piece. For example, one might say that using an H hook, a 4 x 4 square will give you 17 stitches across and 23 rows. Another brand might say using an H hook, a 4 x 4 square will you 18 stitches across and 24 rows. That tells you that the first yarn is thicker as it takes less stitches and rows in the same size space. This information is not standardized, so there's no guarantee your yarn will be labeled in that particular way, but it will be labeled in some way. Many labels today have a pattern included on the inside of the label. This is one reason they give this information. It's the gauge for your pattern.

Don't forget to adjust how much yarn you BUY as well. If you're making it larger, make sure you buy enough extra yarn in the same dye lot. If smaller, you won't need as much.

However, you may want to be able to adjust your pattern periodically as your needs change. For this you need to know the multiple of your pattern so you can adjust the foundation chain. If you have the multiple, you will always be able to adjust up or down. This is especially helpful for patterns that you just love and want to do over and over again but sometimes you want to make a baby item and sometimes a full size one. So, here's how I figured the multiple using Ben's Camouflage Ripple pattern as an example.

The first pattern row determines your foundation chain. Let's count the chains needed to work the first row.

Ch 1, 2, 3, dc in 4th chain from hook (that's 4) , dc in next 2 chains (that's another 2 for a total of 6)

How long will it take me to make this afghan? I need to have it finished before... *insert occasion*
Well, that depends. Hee hee. How fast are you? You don't know? Then you need to find out.

Every pattern will be different because patterns are of different complexity. If you need to know whether you  have enough time to finish an afghan before Christmas or a special birthday or whatever, time yourself while crocheting one row of the project. You might want to time yourself say three separate times and take the average. Then figure out how many rows you need. Multiply the time it took you to make one row by the number of rows and voila, that's how long it will take you to make the blankie in a perfect world. Keep in mind that this is if you continue to crochet without stopping. Of course, you're going to stop - you have to cook, eat, use the bathroom, shower, bring the kids here and there, check your e-mail *wink*. You also will not crochet without stopping, especially if you're having a conversation or watching a tv program that steals your attention. So figure at least three times whatever you come up with (in daylight hours unless you crochet in your sleep). Or you might double the time you get for each row. Say it takes you 15 minutes to do a row when you're concentrating fully on that. Estimate then that it will take you 30 minutes per row when you're not doing something else while crocheting. Don't forget to add time for borders and sewing in ends, which can take quite a while. Your border will take longer than your rows because the length will be longer.

Example 1: I timed myself while crocheting a row in a doll blankie I was making. It took me 6 minutes to do one row. I knew I needed 45 rows, so that is 270 minutes, or 4.5 hours. If I would have sat down and done nothing but crochet on that blankie, I would have finished it in approximately 4.5 hours, probably a little longer since you won't go at the same speed the entire time you're crocheting. When you're timing yourself you tend to go faster to meet the challenge. How long did it actually take me? Two days. Besides the 45 rows, I also did a two round border and then had to sew in the ends.

Example 2: I was working a dc ripple using blo. I mention the blo (back loop only) because it takes longer to do. You wouldn't think so, but it does because you have to pull that back thread where it is more automatic to go through both loops. You have to watch what you're doing. I timed myself crocheting one row. It took about 16 minutes. Later, I timed myself while watching television. It took about a half hour. There were times I found it took even longer if it was an exciting show or the dog wanted to go out often, or the kids needed something. I estimated I would need about 130 rows. At the shortest time that would be about 35 hours for the afghan, not counting the border and sewing in the ends. At a half hour per row, that would be 65 hours, also not counting border and ends. That's quite a difference - well, almost twice as long *grin*. Unless you have a family who really appreciates crochet, you won't get more than a couple hours where you can concentrate on crocheting. I cheated. I found movie marathons and got them interested in them because this was something I wanted to finish before Christmas and I definitely needed more than 2 hours per day of crocheting time. I also went no-mail on my e-mail lists, and didn't plan any elaborate meals during that time. :-)

So, how long would it take to complete that afghan? It is a twin size afghan if you're wondering. Figuring 2 hours per day at the longer time because that is more realistic, it would be 33 days.

Why do all this figuring anyway? Well, in this case, I don't HAVE 33 days to complete this project, so I know I need to work more than 2 hours per day, possibly spending a few late nights.

Don't forget to add mailing time if you have to send off that project!

I can't find this pattern. Can you help me?
I'm sorry, but no. I would love to have a 48-hour day so I could do this, but I just don't have the time. Besides maintaining this extensive web site, I have several others. I also homeschool my children, have church and family obligations, and am pursuing a writing career. Sometimes, however, a pattern asked for is something I'm interested in myself or something I remember seeing recently. However, most of the time I will just tell you to do a web search, which is what I would have to do myself. My search engine of preference is www.google.com . I might also suggest you put a message on a message board or join a crochet list.

I am trying to work a pattern and am having trouble. Can you help me to figure it out?
I am very happy to help when the problem is one I can solve without actually working the pattern. I cannot make all the items you all are making in order to help you and sometimes it's hard to tell the problem without doing so. I cannot take you row by row through your project though I'd love to do that if I had the time. I can only help with general questions, many of which are answered right here in the FAQ. Again, this is a time thing, not a lack of desire to help. I put all the information I can think of on the web site so that you can, hopefully, find the solutions to most problems here. Having said that, however, many times I get ideas of things to add or changes which need to be made from questions you all ask me. Your question may lead me to something that might help others or to improve on what I already have on the site. The Crochet Dictionary resulted from a question a visitor asked.

How about if I send you the pattern and you can re-write it for me in English?
Do not send me any copyrighted patterns without permission from the publisher or web site designer. If you want to translate a pattern into regular English for your own use, I tell you how to do that below in the question:

I can’t read this pattern! It looks like Greek to me.
I have two suggestions. One is to go to my Reading Patterns page and you will find many of the abbreviations commonly used in patterns, as well as some other useful  info. The second is to replace all the abbreviations with the full terms. This is how you do that:
Firstly, the pattern must be in your computer somewhere. Open your word processor. Copy and paste the text of your pattern into your word processor if it is not already there. If it is already saved, then open that file.

At the top of your screen are your commands - File, Edit etc. Under Edit is a command called "Replace". There is one that will just find and there is one that will both find an item and then replace it with something else. When that box opens, in the box to the right of "find" type in one of the abbreviations in your pattern, for example ch. In the "replace" section, type in chain. (Keep in mind that if there is an instance where you need "chains" with an "s", this will not put the "s" in.) You may also want to check the little box that says "match case" if your program has that. This is so that it doesn't just look for words. In other words, it would look for space-ch-space. Some patterns will not have a space between ch-3 for example.

Then click on the box to the right that says "Find next". Here's where you have to be careful. You see, "ch" may appear in your pattern as part of a word, and not an abbreviation. The program will highlight every "ch" it finds. If the one that is highlighted is an abbreviation that you want to change, you just click on "replace". DO NOT click on "replace all" unless you are POSITIVE that "ch" only appears in your pattern as an abbreviation. For example, it may find "ch" in "satchel". If you replace the "ch" your word will read "satchainel", which would be wrong.

When you are finished with ch, just delete it from your "find" box and type in the next one you want to do. It may take a while if you have a long pattern but eventually you will have a pattern written in "real English" that you can work with ease.

Keep in mind that this works the other way too. If you have a pattern written in long hand and you want abbreviations, just follow the procedure backwards.

I hate to get to the end of my first row and find I have not made enough chains on my foundation chain. What can I do about this?
There is a simple solution to this problem while still using the traditional foundation chain.  If your pattern says chain 150, just chain 155 or 160. When you complete the required stitches of your pattern, you just undo the extra stitches. It is easier to undo a few stitches, than to have to redo 150 chains! Now I recommend you go back and check your pattern to be sure you didn’t make a mistake before you undo those chains--especially if the first row is straight sc or dc. :-) You can also add a few stitches by making more foundation chains on the end of the ones you've already made. Just insert your hook in the slip knot and use the dangling strand to make the chains. Now in order for this to work, you need to leave a looonnggg yarn end. So if you plan to be short, ha!, make sure your yarn end is long. I suggest leaving a long end regardless.

Jean Leinhauser has a wonderful lesson (with pictures) on this method in the book, The Crochet Yearbook (ASN). There are several great tips and tutorials in this book. I highly recommend it.

If you are interested in another method where you do not have to make a long chain, but can make your first row at the same time as your foundation chain, then there is another way to handle this problem. This method can also be used when you need to add stitches at the end of a row, as when making a vest or sweater perhaps, or a shaped pillow. What you do, briefly, is to chain 2 for a foundation chain, single crochet into the second chain from hook, then for your next stitch, you insert your hook into the base of your sc, yo and pull up a loop, yo and draw through one loop on hook, yo and draw through both loops on hook. This gives you both a new "base" and a stitch.

Josi Hannon Madera has a similar method she calls the Double Base Chain Stitch and there are pictures of it at her web site: Josi Hannon Madera Double Base Chain Stitch . She also has a triple base chain stitch.

Why do you recommend putting borders around everything?
Borders give your work a “finished” look. Even if all you do is put a round of single crochet on the completed project, it will look better, IMHO. If the pattern uses mostly double crochet or “tall” stitches, you might try a double crochet border--either simple dc, or a shell pattern, or just any border you like. However, I have successfully used a sc border on a dc piece so it really is up to you. You can use a different color for your border or the same color--just all depends what you like. However, YOU are the one who needs to be pleased with your work so if you don’t want a border, don’t put one! This is just my personal preference. Note: A granny square afghan doesn’t actually need a border and sometimes I won’t put one on this type of stitch.

I've made an afghan from a pattern I found in a book. Can I sell it?
Okay, I'm not a lawyer but I recently received a response to a query I made to Leisure Arts which said "Although you may sell your finished pieces on an occasional basis, as a hobbyist, we do not grant permission for the designs to be used for commercial purposes, meaning that if you are considered to be in business, you are prohibited from using our designs."  I suggest you check out the copyright laws. I have links I have found useful on the bottom of every page but here they are again:

For more information on copyrights, please see
About.com (excellent article)
For teachers and students: Copyright Mystery
United States Copyright Office
Crochet Partners web site on Copyright
The Copyright FAQ for Knitters
United States Patent and Trademark Office
Crochet Kim (list of published designers)
The Girl from Auntie
Knitty.com

I might also note that for works copyrighted before 1923, they are now in the public domain and anything published after 1978 is considered copyrighted whether the person has filed or not. Other years require more information to know whether they are still copyrighted or not. When in doubt, check it out.

As to selling something you make, if the designer or published does not say specifically that you can, then you must ask permission, even if you purchased the pattern.