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2001 Sept 11
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Katrina
August '05


Frequently Asked Questions

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Crochet FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)
cSandra Petit, http://www.crochetcabana.com      

Since publishing my crochet web pages I have received numerous questions! I have come to realize that some things I take for granted and just intuitively do from years of crocheting, are not so “intuitive”  to people who are new to crochet. Firstly, if you don't know how to crochet at all, go to my tutorials.

If you already know how to crochet but have other questions, here's the place to be. My goal is that you are fully able to appreciate and enjoy your work, both in the making and in the final product. Thanks to everyone who has asked me questions in the past and those who have taught me the things I’m including! Also, if you disagree with my answers, feel free to write and let me know how you have solved the problem. Can’t promise to know the answers to all your questions, nor can I promise to give what others might consider the right answer, but if you don’t ask, you’ll never know. :-)  Enjoy!

Pattern questions are on a separate page, now with pictures.

Note: This site uses American terminology for crochet. I have a chart showing the difference here.

Yarn Questions
Knots? NO (3-06)
Long ends? YES (6-05)
Weave as I go or at the end? (6-05)
Cotton or acrylic? Wool or man-made?
Yarn Substitution

Dye lots
Center pull thread 
Winding yarn 
Cleaning yarn

Project questions
Keeping work from unraveling
How big?
Washing projects
Sending me projects - don't

Miscellaneous Questions
Freeform crochet
Selling items made from a published design
Mail 
Stitch videos
 

Why do I always hear not to make knots? What's wrong with knots?

Excellent question and I don't believe I never covered this before! First off, let me explain what I personally mean by knotting. I have a page devoted to ends and finishing off your work. Please check that out and then come back here.

Now you should understand what I DON'T mean by knotting. I don't mean the normal finish off where you pull your long tail through to finish your work. This keeps it from unraveling. I also don't mean loosely tying two pieces together when you've joined a new skein of yarn while you continue working and then weaving in each of the long tails later. Other people might consider this knotting. If you are not sure, ASK because some groups have strict rules about knotting and you want to be clear on this. They may consider any sort of tying to be knotting.

What I do mean by knotting is tying your two strands together tightly and/or then tying them again. Or tying your single strand into a knot. In either case if you cut the strand right after the knot, I will shake my finger at you and frown. This is bad, bad, bad. It's okay if you did it in the past. Move on and do it correctly now. And teach others the correct method. We need to nip this practice in the bud. I believe that right and wrong is a blurred line in most things crochet - if it works for you, it is okay. But some things are wrong at the core because they are harmful to your work in the sense that it will not give you a quality finished product that will bring pleasure to the recipient for many years.

Knotting and cutting at the knot is one of these. Knotting and leaving a 1" piece of yarn is another. ALWAYS, always leave a long tail - by long, I mean several inches. Your needle is a couple inches. It has to be longer than your needle or how will you weave it in. Sure you can use your crochet hook, but let's not get off topic. :-)

I see you shaking your head at me. I am not answering your question of WHY? Why is this bad, you want to know. Here's why.
1) they can pull apart, before, after, or during a washing -- no matter how tightly you think you've tied them. I've had them come apart while I was assembling an afghan. I haven't personally had them come apart in the wash because I don't do this myself and when I get squares for assembling, I check them carefully before they get into an afghan. I have on occasion missed a couple and hence, I know they do come apart.

2) If you did tie them tightly, this can weaken the strand and it may break. I have also seen this when, in order to save the square, I've tried to sew in strands that have been knotted. If you pull too tightly on them the yarn breaks. You can see this yourself if you pull tightly on yarn. Some kinds are more susceptible to breaking than others, of course.

3) It creates a bump that you can feel. This is actually painful to sensitive skin (cancer patients and preemies for example) and even if you do not have sensitive skin it is not good to feel that hard bump in an otherwise soft, smooth piece.

4) knots are hard to crochet over, particular in adding to a piece (for example, an assembler adding to a square) or joining squares or strips or clothing pieces

5) After washing, the tip of the sewn in tail sometimes pokes out and can be clipped if you sewed in a long strand. In the case of two ends that have been knotted, occasionally the section where the knot is will come out. This is next to impossible to sew back in because there is no "open" segment to thread. I usually end up unknotting the section and hoping there is enough to sew in afterwards as this is the only way to get it back into the work.

The preferred, professional method of finishing is to weave in long tails. See next question for the why of the long tails.

Why do I have to leave long ends?

Because I said so. LOL Nah, really. There are several reasons that I, and other experienced crocheters, suggest leaving long ends. Dee Stanziano of Crochet with Dee put these into list form for us. I have rec'd permission to share them with you in my own words.

1. the more you weave in, the less chance your afghan/sweater or whatever will later come apart. (added note: some folks like to weave a few inches and one direction and then head back in the other direction for extra stability. See my tutorial on ends for more info on taking care of those pesky ends.)

2. If you left a long tail at the beginning of your foundation chain, and you find you made too few, you can make more chains with the beginning long strand. As Dee says, "it's a plug on amazing "fudge-ability" crochet has to offer over knitting".

3. In later years if a hole develops or repair is needed, the crocheter can use that long tail to make the repair, matching the fiber and color exactly.

Weave as I go or wait until I'm finished the project?

It really doesn't matter as far as how your finished project will look, but Darla Fanton of Designs by Darla makes a good point when she suggests that if you are one who can't help but rip back when you find an error, no matter how far back it is, then you might like to leave the weaving until the end when you're satisfied all is well with your work and there are no mistakes. That is because it is sometimes hard to rip the section where you weaved the ends in, especially if you did a good job. *wink* You might end up having to cut and not have enough left to weave in again.

Cotton or acrylic? Wool or man-made?
Both have their uses. Acrylic yarn is fine for most purposes. I use it for afghans a lot. I also use blends of wool and other fibers. Some people are allergic to wool, but if they are not, wool is perfect for warm afghans.

What if you have some yarn and you don't know if it is wool or acrylic? You wouldn't want to shrink it in washing or use it in a product you're making for someone with a wool allergy. We recently discussed this on one of my lists and here's what I learned. There are at least two ways of telling if your yarn is wool or acrylic.
1) take a tiny snip of yarn, light it with a match. If it smells like burning hair, it's wool. If it smells like plastic, it's acrylic.
2) put a few inches of yarn in a small jar of chlorine bleach. If it's wool it will dissolve. If it is acrylic it won't. If it is a blend, it will look like part of it has dissolved.

In regards to cotton vs other materials for dishcloths: Cotton is more absorbent than acrylic and so is better suited to kitchen use. It not only absorbs water better, but it absorbs heat better unless acrylic which conducts heat. One person told me that heat will fuse the acrylic to itself and whatever surface it's on and if very hot will burn your skin. Any yarn/thread will burn if put directly in flame, but acrylic would probably do so faster. I have not tested this theory. :-)

How can I clean a skein of yarn before using it? (including smelly stuff)
Jean Felton told me to place a skein of yarn in an old stocking, tie the ends securely, and throw in the washer. Now you can see if that “stain” comes out before you spend a lot of time making something from it.  Another lady (sorry I can’t remember who it was) said that if your completed project has a smoky smell, put it outside in the rain. I did have some preemie afghans with a strong smoke odor. I washed them in Tide and used a Cling Free dryer sheet and the smell seemed to come out. You could also try hanging them outdoors after washing (or even before) if you have a clothes line.

Deborah in Arizona sent me still another washing hint: wash using cold water and one half cup of white vinegar in the wash cycle to set all dyes and remove all preservatives used in the yarns.

Bonnie in Washington suggested hand-washing items using mixed yarn types with a mild shampoo.

Where’s the center pull thread??
Sometimes it’s hard to find that center thread in a skein of yarn. Of course, it’s best if you DO find it as it makes your tension smoother as you crochet. But some skeins don't have a center pull, like Wool Ease. If you absolutely can’t find the center pull thread in a skein that should have one, you have two options. You can find the ending thread and rewind the yarn into a ball which would make it easier to unwind for crocheting. (a yarn winder is real handy in that instance) Be sure to wind loosely so you don’t stretch the yarn. If you don't have a ball winder or just don't want to do that, you could just use the end thread and be sure to unwind enough for several stitches to keep your tension even. I have heard that if you use the ending thread you are using the thread in the opposite direction from which it was wound and thus not as it was intended to be used. Whether this will cause any problems, I don’t know. If you are using a variegated yarn and you use one strand from the center pull and another from the end, in a continuous piece like an afghan, your colors may be backwards and might not look as nice. It's good to check variegated yarn anyway as I've had some that were apparently wound in the opposite direction as my colors were in a different order on different skeins.

Extra note: When you pull that center thread out, you may notice that it is tight when you pull on it. If this happens, look at the opposite end of your skein. If, when you pull on your center pull thread, you can see it tighten at the opposite end, clip the yarn at the OPPOSITE end (not your center pull thread) just where it tightens. Be careful not to clip anything else. Then when you next pull on your center thread, that small piece will come out. Just untangle it from your center pull thread and throw it away. I've never read this anywhere before, but it happens to me all the time and will mess with your tension while you're crocheting.

Should I wind all my yarn into balls?
Yeah right! (only kidding) Who has time to do this? If you have a ball winder and it only takes you a few minutes, and you really want to, go ahead and wind all your skeins into balls (be sure to do it loosely not to stretch the yarn). Then put them into a paper bag or one of those gift bags, on the floor by your feet, as you work. They will roll around in the bag and you won’t have to go chasing it around the room. Hee Hee. I use the center pull on my skeins whenever possible. I do ball the leftovers when finished with a project and I also ball yarn when I am frogging (ripping) a project. I almost always put my skein in a plastic ziploc bag as I find this helps with the end-of-skein mess you get. When I put the skein in a bag I have very little trouble. Extra note: I was recently given as a gift a Creative Gear Yarn Bag from Herrschners . This is a super useful gift, especially if you work with multiple colors and like to bring your project with you. It has a strap, is a soft plastic and there are holes in the top so you can thread your yarn through (with a velcro tab to hold it in place when you're not using it). I love mine.  I also have a hard plastic container that is similar. That one is pictured in the storage section on this site. I hope to take a picture of my CGYB soon.

That perfect pattern is made with thread and I don’t have any. Can I use cotton or acrylic yarn?
Uh-huh. Yep. But the size won’t be the same. Thread is thinner than yarn, much thinner. The item will be significantly larger in yarn than in thread, but not necessarily awful looking. Some items look nice large or small. I made some Christmas ornaments in thin cotton yarn and also in acrylic yarn. The yarn ones were larger, but both looked okay. So the answer it, it just depends. See yarn equivalents in Yarn Yak for more info.

I have a big project to do and (fill in name of store) has only 5 skeins of yarn in the color I need--and the dye lots are all different. What do I do?
When working on a large project one option is to buy yarn from a catalog. Of course, you have to plan ahead. :-)  This way you can order as many skeins of one color as you need and they should all be from the same dye lot. Of course, you take a chance if you don't know specifically the name/number color of your yarn. I have purchased some in the past, judging by the picture on the web site and was disappointed in the color. However, if the color is not critical or you know the actual name or number you want, this is a way to go.

Sometimes store personnel will call around and try to find more of your yarn in the same dye lot if they are a chain and have more than one store in the area, and the salesperson is a sweetheart. You could always ask. Even the “no dye lot” skeins do have a slight color variation in skeins purchased at different times. This won’t matter if you’re not using it on the same project, but if you put two even slightly off color skeins next to one another on the same project, you will be able to see the difference. This is true of variegated yarns as well as solid color.

Also, when using variegated yarn, when you start a new skein, check to be sure your colors are appearing in the same order as previously. Sometimes they wind the yarn backwards, though I'm not sure how that happens. I just learned a neat trick to keep the variegated yarn from making a "pattern" in your work. You can use two skeins, changing skeins from one row to the next, but don't cut the yarn. Just carry it up the side as I show in my tutorial on joining new colors.

Extra hint: Buy MORE than you think you need. You can always use extra, but can’t always get the same yarn if you run out. And you can probably return the unused portion <gasp> if you keep your receipt and do it within a reasonable time frame.

How can I keep my work from unraveling before it's completed?
I have used various methods to keep my stitches from coming apart when someone accidentally gets tangled up in my work, or I put it down and when I pick it up again, I have to search for the end of it etc. Stitch holders work, as do paper clips, and safety pins, but of late I have been using "Lil's Knot". I have a tutorial showing how to make it. By using this method, I don't have to make sure I have a handy paper clip or safety pin or stitch holder. All I need is my fingers and the yarn, which I have. LOL

How big should I make this ...?
In regards to afghans, I have another section on the site for sizing of afghans where I give you bed sizes. However, I just learned a very interesting fact about scarves. I understand it is customary to make a scarf at least as long as the person is tall. I never heard this before, but it certainly makes sense since you wrap it around your neck - sometimes multiple wraps if it's really cold. Thank you, Mary, for this tip!

To wash or not to wash
Some people like to wash their projects before using them or giving them as gifts. I never used to do this, but I am changing my ways. Having worked with preemie blankies, which need to be washed to get the sizing out before putting them on sensitive newborns, I have discovered that washing projects sometimes causes strange things to happen. :-) Threads you thought secure will pop out at you. Also, some yarns become much softer after washing. Red Heart yarn is this way. Stiff to work with, but soft after washing. One caution, some yarns have a longer drying time than others. Make sure your piece is completely dry before packing it into a plastic bag or your item will arrive damp and the bag will be full of droplets. If you’re short on time, though, and your ends don’t normally pop out, I wouldn’t hesitate to send it without washing as well. Most Moms wash newborn items before using anyway. It would be thoughtful to include the yarn label washing instructions, or your own little note telling the recipient how to wash the piece.

How do you wash it, you ask? I just throw mine in the washing machine, on gentle cycle with my regular detergent. Then in the dryer with a softener sheet. If it’s for a baby, I usually use Ivory Snow or Dreft--anything made for babies that won’t take the fire-proofing stuff out. For preemie items, the softener smell may be too strong so you may prefer to use softener in the washing machine rather than the dryer for those items.

Also, see question above for some other washing hints.

How about if I send you something I've made and you can tell me what I did wrong?
No. Don't do that as I most likely wouldn't be able to tell what you did wrong and could not return the item. You can take a picture of it and send it to me if you ask me first, though I don't guarantee I'll be able to help then either. I don't open attachments I am not expecting.

What is freeform crochet?
Freeform crochet has been compared to doodling. In doodling, one just makes designs all over the page, no particular rhyme or reason to it. In freeform crochet, you just pick up your hook and crochet, not squares or circles or rows, just anything that pops into your head. There are pictures of some freeform designs on the sites listed on my links page. This style of crochet won't be for everyone, but if you want to try something different, give it a look.

I've made an afghan from a pattern I found in a book. Can I sell it?
Okay, I'm not a lawyer but I recently received a response to a query I made to Leisure Arts which said "Although you may sell your finished pieces on an occasional basis, as a hobbyist, we do not grant permission for the designs to be used for commercial purposes, meaning that if you are considered to be in business, you are prohibited from using our designs."  I suggest you check out the copyright laws. I have links I have found useful on the bottom of every page but here they are again:
Crochet Partners web site FYI series
The Copyright FAQ for Knitters
United States Patent and Trademark Office
The Girl from Auntie

You say you answer all e-mails. Well, I wrote you once and you didn't answer.
I DO answer every e-mail I receive, even if it is to say I can't help you. What happens sometimes is that the mail is returned to me as undeliverable. I usually will try once more, but then I give up. I don't have time - there's that word again - to keep trying to answer the same message over and over again. Also, sometimes a person will send me a message through a form, but not include their e-mail. I certainly understand the precaution of not handing out your e-mail address to just anyone, but don't expect an answer if I don't have it. If you don't get an answer to your question within a few days, try again. I answer my mail daily unless bad weather or bad health prohibits me using the computer. Oh, and if you reply to my reply, please include the text of my answer as I get a lot of mail and I don't always remember your exact situation.

I wish I had someone sitting here with me to show me how to do these stitches. Short of that, what can I do?
Go to http://www.nexstitch.com to see info on Tunisian (afghan stitch) as well as a bit of basics. I have one video here and hope to have more in the future.

 


02/03/08

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http://www.crochetcabana.com  Created October 1997.

Please visit my other web sites, Sandra’s Backyard, SandraPetit.com, and Crafty Corral