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BORDERS
General Facts
Single Crochet Small Rectangle and Border
Shell Border
Reverse Single Crochet
Two round Granny
Big Five Border
An Even Dozen
Note: I had to rebuild this
page so if there are links that do not work, please let me know as I may have
just forgotten to link them.
BORDERS
c2007 Sandra Petit,
http://www.crochetcabana.com
Just the Facts...
There are about a zillion borders that you can choose from to put on any one
project.
There are a few general things, however, that I can tell you and here they are:
1) Usually, you put more stitches into your corners to make the turn and
"square" that corner - that is unless you WANT a rounded corner, of course. It
is usually 3 or 5 stitches, but pay attention to your pattern. An odd number is
important especially if you intend to join that square to others. I have learned
a few methods that seem to do a better job of getting those corners square. They
are listed below and also on my pattern faq page.
Another option for the corner turn might be to do (sc, hdc, sc). That will give
you a bit more height in the actual corner. I rarely use 3 scs anymore though my
older patterns may say that. :-)
2) Borders are usually worked on the right side of your project. If you are
doing a border with more than one row, pattern may say to turn and continue but
in most cases, you chain up and then continue along the same side, joining at
the end of a round. In any case, my suggestion would be to finish the final
round on the right side.
3) You want your work to lie flat, so you sometimes have to adjust your stitches
along the sides for that to happen. If you are bordering a square, you might
want to count the stitches along each side and adjust to make sure they are all
the same, particularly if you will be joining these squares later.
4) If your piece is worked in double crochet rows, and you are doing a plain sc
or dc border, along your sides you would put 2 stitches in (or under) the post
of each double crochet, probably 3 in each corner as states above in #1.
However, if your piece won't lie flat, feel free to skip a stitch here and there
to help with that problem. If it seems to pull then add a few.
5) If your piece is worked in single crochet rows, you would border with one
stitch in each stitch along the sides. Same suggestion as in #4. Adjust as
necessary for your work to lie flat and not pucker.
6) As to the top and bottom of your piece, you would work 1 stitch in every
stitch and usually one in every ch-1 space. If you have a place where there is
more than one chain, you will have to judge whether that spot needs more
stitches or not. Your piece should lie flat, so adjust stitches so that it will.
You want to try and have approximately the same number on your top row as your
bottom.
7) For a ripple pattern, when you get to the place where you did your foundation
row, you will be working opposite when you get to your first row. Where you
skipped 2 chains, you would make that your "hill" and as in the case of my
pattern, you would put 3 stitches. Where you put 3 stitches on your row 1, you
would skip that stitch, for your "valley". It's a little confusing to read, but
when you're doing it, you will see.
8) If you are working in the round, same rules apply. You want your piece to lie
flat, so adjust your stitches accordingly, still probably making 3 stitches (or
more) in corners of a square piece. However, do all the corners the same on the
same square and in a series of squares that will go in the same project.
9) Even if I am going to use a fancier border, I put a single crochet border all
around first. I then find it easier to determine my stitches for the border and
get it to lie flat
10) Sometimes I also find that I fudge a bit when I get back round to my
beginning and join. The join adds one "loop" so I may only work 2 stitches there
and count the loop as another. This is just how I personally work. I don't know
what rules the experts say to use.
11) Work your border in the same material that you worked your square. In other
words, if you used worsted weight acrylic for the project, use worsted weight
acrylic for the border. You don't have to use the same color obviously because
often a border is used as an accent.
Single Crochet Small
Rectangle and Border
c2006 Sandra Petit
I needed to border a strip for the joining tutorial, so I thought I'd add a
"tutorial" on working a simple single crochet border. I made up a small sample
strip to border. Here is the pattern I used. This strip is done in purple with
white border.
Row 1: ch 8, dc in 4th chain from hook, dc in each remaining chain, ch 2, turn.
(6dc)
Row 2: dc in 2nd dc (second "hole") and in next 4 dc, dc in top chain of turning
chain, ch 2, turn. (6dc)
Rows 3-5: repeat row 2. Do not ch 2 at the end of row 5, Do not finish off but
do cut your yarn about 4-6 inches from the end. Join white for border here.
Note: You will finish Row 5 on the RIGHT side of the strip. I always try to work
my border on the right side of my work unless the pattern says otherwise.
Border: (Important note: You're going to be turning your work - but when I say
"turn" in this case, I don't mean turn it towards the back, but rather just move
it so that the row you're working on it at the top. You'll remain on the RIGHT
side of the work.)
With right side facing you, shove the beginning dangling piece of your new yarn
(white in this case) to the back and work over your old yarn (purple) end. You
can work over both ends if you want to but it may be kind of thick there. You
should have about 4" of the purple.
Note: I personally find that my border lies flat if I use a hook one size
smaller than I used for the project. This may not be the case for you. You'll
have to experiment to see what works best.
Left side: With white, ch 1, work 2 sc under each dc (lying on its side) down
the left side of your strip. (don't forget you're working over your end so you
don't have to sew it in later). If your end is longer than that side, snip it
here. Caution: Make sure you snip the right one, because your beginning yarn is
hanging there too. :-) You should have 10 single crochets at this point.
Fig. 1 |
Fig 2 |
For your corner, you have
options. There are many ways to make the turn of your corner in a border. Here
are a few choices. Of course, this depends on if you are doing a sc border, dc
border, or some other kind. Use the same style corner for each of the corners of
your work.
1) 3 stitches in each
corner - This is the option many patterns choose. Pictured in Fig. 3.
2) (sc, ch 2, sc) - add chains between stitches. This is a nice picot look
for borders as well.
3) (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) - more square corner
4) (2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc) - more square corner
5) (sc, hdc, sc) or (dc, tr, dc) - use a longer stitch as the corner stitch
After you complete the
corner, it will help if you turn your piece so that next side is now your top.
Work 1 sc in next 4 chain loops (there's 5 of them but only use 4 right now),
crocheting over the beginning yarn dangling there. (Fig. 4) Then make 3 sc (if
that is the corner you've chosen) in the top chain. (Fig. 5) (This is the
skipped chains from your foundation chain where you chained into the fourth
chain to make your first row.) We're doing this for consistency as this will be
important when you join.
Okay, turn your piece again
so the next row, which is actually the side of your work, is on top. Work 2 sc
under each double crochet (lying on its side). NOT counting the 3 sc in your
second corner, you should have 10 single crochets. (Fig. 6)
Fig 6
Now, here's where it's a
little tricky. You need to make a corner, but do you see a stitch there? It's
real hard to see. You're going to have to squiggle things over so you can catch
that top chain. (Remember that those last two single crochets you made were not
over an actual double crochet but over your turning chains. That's why it's hard
to see.) (Fig. 7) Work 3 sc in there (Fig. 8), then work a sc in the next 4 dc.
(Fig. 9)
Last one - work 2 sc in next
dc (that's not a mistake, I said TWO) . Reason I say two now is because you're
going to join with a slip stitch, which will give you another "loop" for your
joining. Otherwise, you'll have 4 loops and you'll get confused. Trust me. :-)
Now join with a slip stitch to that beginning chain you made. (Fig. 11) If you
forgot to make a chain-1 at the beginning, don't fret. Just make an extra single
crochet and join to that first single crochet of your border.
Note: You can also choose to finish with the Invisible Finish Off.
fig 11 |
Fig 12 |
Ta da! You just made a
border. I would tell you to go eat a bowl of ice cream, but I'm trying to be
good. (Well, if you MUST know, at the time I wrote this I was eating a box of
Jujubes. LOL It's only fair that you have one too. If you have lot of tooth
fillings or braces or for some reason can't eat soft chewy candy, substitute
your favorite snack--if you're trying to be good, have a piece of fruit.)
Remember, that this is just ONE kind of border you can make on ONE kind of
strip. More border ideas below. If your crochet project is worked in single
crochet rows, then instead of 2 sc in each row down the side, you would do one
but still do the 3 sc in corners. You can also use double crochet rather than
single for your border. You would work it the same way. Work 2 dc in each double
crochet along the sides (or 1 dc if you worked the piece in single crochet rows)
and 3 dc in corners.
Enjoy!
Shell Border
c2006 Sandra Petit
PIC ltc-b-border
Here's another border, simple shell border, that you can use for almost any
afghan. It's rather delicate, yet with an "edge". More girlie I would say, but
yet I would not think offensive to a guy. Any guys out there can let me know.
This is not a tutorial. It's a pattern.
Round 1: ch 1, sc around piece using 3 sc OR (sc, ch 2, sc) OR (sc, hdc, sc) in
corners - any of the methods that use 3 stitches, join with sl st to beg (note:
if your afghan uses dc, you should do 2 sc in ea dc row along sides; if your
piece uses sc, then you should do 1 sc in ea sc row along sides)
Round 2: in same st (ch 1, sc, ch 2, 2 dc), *sk 2 sc, in next sc (sc, ch 2, 2
dc), rep from * around, join with sl st to beg ch-1
Reverse
Single Crochet Border
c2006 Sandra Petit
I often like to border afghans that just need a bit of a finished edge with a
reverse single crochet. It is not real delicate, so it works well for a man's
afghan. Work just as the single crochet border above, but use the reverse single
crochet stitch.
Two Round Granny Border for a 12" square
c2006 Sandra Petit
I recently needed a border to be worked on squares that were already bordered
with a single or double crochet. I wanted to join the squares with
join-as-you-go for grannies, so I needed to make these squares "grannies" so to
speak. Here's the border I added to do this. You can see this round in the
picture below under Big Five Border. It is the buff round between the green and
burgundy.
Abbreviated Instructions for experienced crocheters:
Rnd 1: sc around square, making sure you have same number of stitches all
around, corners: 3sc OR (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc)
Rnd 2: (2 dc, ch 1, sk 2) around, corners: (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc)
Rnd 1: join yarn with a slip stitch in any corner sp, ch 1, work 3 sc in corners
[or (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) if necessary to square off] and 1 sc in ea st around
square - try to get the same number of stitches on all sides. For the project I
was working, which was a 12" square, it was 38 stitches - that doesn't mean
every 12" square will need 38 stitches. It just depends on the square.), join
with sl st to beg sc
Rnd 2: sl st in center corner st or sp, (ch 2, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner, skip
2, (2 dc in same st, ch 1, sk 2) around, working (2 dc, ch 2, 2dc) in corners,
(13 shells for this 12" square)
That gave me shells to use for my granny jayg joining.
Here's a photo of just the shell pattern in a different project.
After I finished joining these squares, I didn't want to do a plain border but
wanted something a bit fancier. Looking around the web I didn't find anything
that quite matched what I wanted, but I got some ideas from various sources and
the 5 round border below is what I ended up with.
Big Five Border
c2006 Sandra Petit
With I hook
This pattern works great with the regular granny square. I didn't go by size but
by rounds - 15 rounds worked well, adjusting colors in a pattern that pleases.
Note: You can use some of these rounds as individual borders on another sort of
project. See below.
Abbreviated Instructions for experienced crocheters:
Rnd 1: sc around, corners: 3 sc
Rnd 2: sc, ch 3, sk 1. corners: (sc, ch 3, sc)
Rnd 3: 2 dc in ea ch-3 loop corners: (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc)
Rnd 4: green, sc, ch 1, sk 1 corner: (sc, ch 2, sc)
Rnd 5: back to buff, sc, ch 2, sc in each ch-1 sp including corners
Here are the same instructions, written in
"pattern" format with a bit more detail
Rnd 1: join MC in any corner sp, sc around afghan, working 3 sc in corners, join
with a slip stitch to first st, slip st to center corner st
Rnd 2: ch1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in corner sp, sk next st, (sc, ch 3, sk 1) around
working (sc, ch 3, sc, sk 1) in center corner stitches, join with slip stitch
to first sc, sl st in ch-3 sp
Rnd 3: (ch 2, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner sp, 2 dc in each ch-3 loop around
working (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corners, join to first st and finish off.
Rnd 4: in any corner, join one of the colors in the afghan other than the MC
with a slip stitch (I used hunter green in the photo), ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in
corner sp, (sc, ch 1, sk 1) around working (sc, ch 2, sc) in corners (if you
find that pulls too much, use (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc), join and finish off
If you need more width/length try dc instead of sc
Rnd 5: join original color in any corner sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in each ch-1
space around, including corner spaces.
An even
dozen
These are just borders I've used over
time. I'm sure they are somewhere as I can't possibly be the first one to think
of combining these stitches. But the photos and comments are mine.
1) (sc, ch 3, sk 1)
2) (sc, ch 1, sk 1)
3) (sc, ch 2, sc) in same stitch, then sk 1 - I call this a picot border, though
it is not a "true" picot in that the sc is not worked in the chains, but in the
stitch below.
4) (sc, ch 2, sc) in same stitch, then, sk 2 - This is a variation of the picot
above with the stitches not quite so close together.
5) (sc, ch 2, dc) in same st, sk 2 - This is an almost-shell. It leaves a little
"breathing space" between the stitches.
6) (sc, ch 3, sk 2) - This is a nice loop stitch. Both this one and the one
below can be used alone or with an additional round where stitches are worked in
the loop.
7) (sc, ch 3, sk 3) - A flatter version of the loop above.
8) shells - You can use any number of combinations of shell patterns. This
particular one uses (sc, sk 1, 3 dc, sk 1). You could use a skip 2. You could
use 5 dc and skip 2. You could use 2 dc instead of 3 or 5. You are limited only
by your imagination. :-)
9) (dc, ch 1, sk 1) - This would be a great border to use if you wanted to add
ribbon to your project.
10) (sc, dc) in same stitch, then sk 1 - This border gives you a fuller look,
but with a straighter edge than some of the others. If you need a piece that is
very warm, you can use this combination in the main part of your work as well.
11) 3 dc in each stitch - This is a ruffle border. You can make the ruffle
larger or smaller by adjusting the number (and height) of the stitches. In other
words, you could put 4 stitches in each stitch, or you could use hdc or triple
crochet stitches. The sample uses 3 dc.
12) change color every stitch - This is a tricky border but can make a really
impressive border - at least to anyone who knows how you did it! I demonstrated
how to do this one in my pattern Blue and Gold V Stitch Afghan. I will reproduce
it here, plus an extra pic using the same piece I've used for the rest of these
photos..
Instructions: It doesn't matter which color you start with. Join in any corner
stitch, ch 1, sc in same stitch but finish stitch with new color. Working over
old color, insert hk into next stitch, yo and pull through, yo with new color
and pull through (finishing the stitch with new color)
If you have a blue loop on hook that means the next st will be blue. If
you have a gold loop on hook, the next stitch will be gold. Always work
over old color.
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insert hook in next stitch, working over the gold, yo with blue
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and pull blue through for two blue loops on hook
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drop blue and pick up gold, pull through to finish the stitch
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insert hook in next stitch, working over the blue, yo and pull gold
through
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for two gold loops on hook
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drop gold and pick up blue, pull through to finish the stitch with blue
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Continue on, changing colors every stitch
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Rules of thumb:
If you have one blue loop on hook, then you will insert hk in st, yo with blue,
and work over gold.
If you have one gold loop on hook, then you will insert hk in st, yo with gold
and work over blue.
If you have two blue loops on your hook then you will yo with gold and pull
through.
If you have two gold loops on hook then you will yo with blue and pull through.
You will continue in this manner around afghan, changing color every stitch and
working over unused color. Work 3 stitches in each corner.
You should soon see if you've picked up the wrong color to work the stitch as
there will be two of the same color side by side. Take note of both the loops
and the body of the stitches.
I also suggest putting your skein in a plastic bag or container as the yarns
tend to get tangled when switching colors so often.
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