Gauge
©2004, update ©2010 Sandra Petit, http://www.crochetcabana.com

Aha! You have found my weakness. I used to never, ever check gauge. I have made mostly afghans or other things where gauge doesn't matter--because you can't have an afghan that's too big now, can you? It's not that I didn't know how to check gauge but because I am basically realllyyyy lazy. LOL  I have been remiss, however, in not explaining to you this concept and am now correcting that little faux pas.

Firstly, let me show you what happens if you DON'T check gauge.

If you click on the thumbnail you will be able to see the measurements more clearly. The green yarn was a thinner yarn and worked up a full quarter inch smaller using the same hook. Had this been squares, you could probably work around the quarter inch difference when joining. However, in a vertical or horizontal strip, you would be able to see the difference and it would ruin the look of your piece.

Why would you need to check gauge? Well, if you are making clothing, of course, you want it to fit. Also, the different parts, such as the sleeve, collar, button holes, etc. all have to mesh together into a whole piece that actually looks like the object you're trying to make. If you are making squares, you want them to fit together. Since that is my focus personally these days, I will start with squares.

Making Squares

It is important to measure when you are making squares that will need to be joined together. This is particularly important if the squares will be going to someone else, as in a charity effort, as usually these have to be combined with other squares made by other people. They may not be using the same hook or tension or yarn that you are using. So it is important that they be as close to the requested size as possible.

I often get questions on how to measure squares. A square, by definition, should be the same on all sides. Here are some photos to help you see what I mean. I am using a 12" ruler. (click on thumbnails for a larger picture). Note when measured diagonally there is space on either side of the ruler. In other words it is longer diagonally than it is vertically or horizontally. You always measure vertically and horizontally to be sure your square is 1) square and 2) the size required. Of course, you should also be sure your ruler is placed at the right point as well. I recommend using a hard measure rather than a flexible tape for squares.

Checking Gauge for other things

In order to check the gauge of  your project you need to make a sample swatch of your pattern. Many patterns will give you the gauge that the designer has used. If the pattern doesn't tell you how to make a swatch, but gives you a multiple, you could use the multiple and make a piece about 6" or so. You want to do enough so that you can measure it correctly, but small enough so that you don't spend all your time on the swatch. Remember to do enough rows as well as stitches.

If it doesn't have a multiple, you can figure out the multiple yourself, or you can just work the pattern for a few rows and do the measuring afterwards. Of course, by this time you are not going to want to rip it back if the gauge is wrong. :-(  Some gauge notations give both row and number of stitches. It is not the same thing. You may have the correct of stitches across but not the correct number of rows, or vice versa.

The stitch gauge (horizontal) is more important than row because you can always add a row or two if needed. However, keep in mind that if there is a border involved, the number of stitches required for the side will be different if you have added rows and you must count the dimension added by the border.

If you are trying to get your row count to match the gauge listed, you can use the Golden Loop. I just learned this term and I think it's rather neat. When you insert your hook into a stitch, you yarn over and pull through. The loop that you pull through is called the Golden Loop (see photo below). To make your stitch longer, you pull it up higher. If you are changing your "normal" manner of working a stitch, then it is important to maintain that throughout your piece or it will be uneven. Be sure to keep your stitches the same height unless otherwise told. This method does work. I've tried it myself and was surprised at what a difference it can make in a piece to have a longer stitch.

Here is a video demonstration of the Golden Loop

Now if you are trying to determine your gauge when you are designing a pattern or just to see what your "normal" gauge is (Is there any such thing as normal?), you need to note whether you are measuring single crochet stitches or double crochet or what you consider to be the "pattern" you are measuring. It makes a big difference, obviously, as the size of your stitches are different. In the above example, if I had assumed Lion Brand was talking about double crochet, I would have been WAY off. :-)

Different pattern stitches may require a bit different measuring technique. If you are doing, for example, ripple stitches, the hills will be higher. You would indicate possibly "measured from the top of a hill to the top of a valley" or whatever measurement you choose to use. Today, everybody does their own thing. Even hooks made by different manufacturers might be slightly different sizes though their letter or number is the same. Also, you yourself might crochet tighter or more loosely with an aluminum versus a wooden hook. You should always give the hook size you are using as a general guide in your designs. Of course, the person working the pattern will adjust for their own tension. CYCA has a set of industry standards - well, what we hope will be industry standards, on their web site.

Remember that terminology is different in different locales also. With the rise of the Internet, we have friends from all over the world and we need to be courteous of their understanding of American phrases as well. U.S. double crochet is European single crochet etc.

In the picture below (fig. 1), the measurement is 3 shells = 2 3/4"; 5 rows = 2 1/2" using an I hook In Figure 2, the  white numbers 1, 2, 3, show you the shells which equal 2.75 or 2 3/4" (same thing). The white one also begins the rows and is followed by the yellow numbers 2, 3, 4, and 5. Those are the 5 rows which equal 2 1/2".

   
Fig 1 and 2

In the picture below (figures 3), worked with a J hook, 9 dc and 5 rows = 3".  The white numbers in figure 4 illustrate the 5 rows.

 
Figures 4 and 5

Remember that a "pattern" may consist of mixed stitches. Rows may include both dc and sc rows or the stitches across may include bobbles or shells or whatever. Pay attention to what the designer considers necessary for correct gauge.

It is always, of course, easier to have an "even" gauge. 2 3/4" is not very easy to measure. Whereas 3" is much better.

That's it for gauge until I think of something else! Go measure something!  :-)

08/26/2011