JOINING SQUARES

Please click on thumbnails to view larger image.

Whipstitch, Backstitch, Mattress Stitch
Slip Stitch, Reverse SC
Join-as-you-go
(JAYG) Granny Squares

Continuous JAYG by Susan Van Winkle
Lacy Granny
Joining with Single Crochet

Joining with Single Crochet and Chains


Rule

Continuous Join-as-you-go (CJAYG)
(tutorial uses Granny Squares)
tutorial and photos c2008 Sandra Petit, http://www.crochetcabana.com
method shared with me by Susan Van Winkle 2008
also demonstrated in the Elmore Method (William Elmore) published by Annie's Attic (out of print)

If you would like to see videos demonstrating this method, with slight changes, you can check out Beth Ham's YouTube videos. She did such a wonderful job of demonstrating this method. If you are like me, it's nice to actually see it worked. You can crochet along with her. I recently tried my hand at making a series of 4 videos detailing this method. If you watch both mine and Pam's, you should get a very good idea of how to work this technique.

Here is the first of my videos. You can go to the YouTube channel to see the remaining three. http://www.youtube.com/user/CrochetCabana

Below is the text tutorial with photos.

This is the RIGHT HANDED version. I have put a very simple LEFT HANDED version below the photo tutorial.

RIGHT HANDED VERSION

First, lay out your squares as in the chart below. I am joining only two columns for the purposes of this tutorial. You can join as many squares as you like, however, just following this procedure. (Your columns and rows can have as many squares as needed. It doesn't have to be 4.)

16    12    8    1

15    11    7    2

14    10    6    3

13    9      5    4

In my opinion you will find it easier to work this method the first time if you actually number your squares so you can follow along with the tutorial more easily.

I am using the granny square join as you go method, but you can use this procedure for any number of other joining methods as well, depending on your needs. My granny pattern is (shell, ch 1) for sides and (shell, ch 3, shell) for corners. That is what I will use here.

Note: With this granny pattern, the method works best if you work a complete left top corner on square #1. Photos in steps 2 through 23 show a first shell only of that corner. You can see the proper square #1 in step 1 and 24.

Here is how we are going to be working it. Follow the arrows. Note that the arrows are ONLY to show you the direction in which you are going to travel. Your stitches will of course be next to one another, not with the space between the rows as the picture.



1

IMPORTANT NOTE:
shell = 3 dc

  • Join yarn with a slip st at the left top corner of square #1

  • work a complete corner here

  • begin just as if you were adding another round to your granny square

  • Work the left side of the square

  • then the left bottom corner

  • then the bottom row up to the first corner shell

  • ch 1
     

2

  • Place square #2 below sq #1. If you want to pick them up to work, note that you will keep wrong sides together. You will be looking at the right side of the sq #2.

  • note: It is important to always work on the right side -- in other words you are making your stitches such that the right side of the stitch is on the right side of the square

  • join square #1 to #2 by working (sc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-3 space of sq #2 for your first shell

  • sc into the ch-1 sp of #1, just as you do in the normal jayg method

  • work shell in ch-1 sp of #2

3

  • go back and forth in this manner, working sc in ch-1 sp on #1 and shell in ch-1 sp on #2

  • end with shell in sq #2, ch 1, then sc in ch-3 sp on sq #1

 

4

  • ch 1, work another shell in same sp on sq #2 to make a corner.

  • work left side side of sq #2 as normal - (ch 1, shell in next ch-1 sp)

 

 

5

  • work corner in bottom left ch-3 sp of #2 (corner is shell, ch 3, shell)

  • work (shell, ch 1) along bottom

  • work last shell in the ch-3 corner sp of sq #2

  • ch 1

  • place sq #3 down now
     

6

Here's the tricky part again - follow same procedure as in steps 2, 3, 4 and 5 except of course you are working with sq 2 and 3.

  • work shells in ch-1 sp on sq #3

  • work sc in ch-1 sp on sq #2

this will join sq #2 and #3
 

 

7

Here you have edged the left side and bottom of sq #3 just as you did on sq #2

You work the first corner shell of sq #3, then ch 1

you will proceed to join sq #4 now

Remember to make sure you are working on the right side of your square

8

Here you have added sq #4 by working (sc, ch 2, 2 dc) in sq #4 corner sp

just as you did in step 2 for squares 1 and 2. Continue to work across as follows:

  • work shells in ch-1 sp on sq #4

  • work sc in ch-1 sp on sq #3

Since this is the last square of our row in this example, it will be a little bit different.

  • work your corner on square #4 as before

  • 3 dc in ch 3 sp of sq #4

  • ch 1

  • sc in ch-3 sp of sq #3

  • ch 1

9

  • work down the left side of square #4 as follows, but do NOT work the bottom of sq #4

  • shell in same corner on sq #4

  • continue across side working (ch 1, shell in next ch-1 sp)
     

10

Now we're going to lay out the next row of squares - 5, 6, 7, and 8

8    1

7    2

6    3

5    4

  • Place 5 down at the left of #4

OR if you're working with row #1 lying as in the photo above, you will place #5 below #4

1     2     3     4

8     7     6     5

  • you have one shell done on sq #4

  • ch 1

  • join square #4 to #5 by working (sc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-3 space of sq #5 for your first shell [you may prefer to just work 3 dcs here as you've been doing all along]

  • sc into the ch-1 sp of #4, just as you do in the normal jayg method

  • work shell in ch-1 sp of #5

  • sc in ch-1 sp of #4 and so on across working shells on sq #5 and sc on sq #4

 

 

11

  • When you get to the corner of #5, you will work 1 shell in the ch-3 corner sp of #5

  • then you will work a sc in the JOIN between sq #4 and #3 - you might feel the need to put a ch-1 here
    [if you prefer you can use a slip stitch instead of a sc in the join. The slip stitch will be a little tighter to go into on the next round]

 

 

12

  • work shell in the ch-3 of sq #6, joining it to #3

  • make sure your shells line up and you are working on the right side

  • continue to work across sq #6 just as you did with #5 (working sc in the ch-1 spaces of #3 and shells in the ch-1 spaces of #6)

  • join #7 and #8 in the same manner

Note that you are joining only the right sides of each square #5, 6, 7, and 8. They will hang loose because they are not connected to one another yet
 

13

  • after you work the shell in the ch-3 space of #8, work ch 1,

  • sc in ch-3 sp of #1

  • ch 1

  • work another shell in the same space as before (making a corner)

  • continue working around the entire square as for the basic granny square pattern as below

(ch 1, shell in next ch-1 sp) across and in corners work (shell, ch 3, shell), ending up at the right bottom corner looking at the square as you are working it

at that point you will join #8 to #7.
 

14

This photo shows the completed join of 8 and 7 (you can see close-ups of these steps in steps 15-19)

  • Work last shell of sq #8 in the corner space of the beginning shell

  • ch 1

  • Remove your hook

  • Turn your squares around so the unworked side of #7 is facing you

  • Place hook in the join cater-corner from #7

  • Reinsert hook in the chain from #8

  • Draw through in a slip stitch to join #8

  • Ch 1 or 2 - whatever works for you

  • note: as you work, strand coming from skein should be on top of your square, not coming from underneath

  • work remaining corner shell of #7. This shell should correspond with the corner shell from #8. In other words, they should be opposite one another in position, touching one another.

  • continue as before working sc in the ch-1 sp of #8 and shell in the ch-1 sp of #7

  • work around #7 just as you did #8 before
     

15

  • Work last shell of sq #7 in the corner space of the beginning shell

  • ch 1

16

  • Remove your hook

  • Turn your squares around so that the unworked side of #6 is facing you now

 

17

  • Place hook in the join space of the shell across from #6 (NOT the corner shell space where you have the first shell)

18

  • Reinsert hk in the chain from #7

19

  • Draw through in a slip stitch to join #6 and #7

20

  • Ch 1 or 2 - whatever works for you

  • work remaining corner shell. This shell should correspond with the corner shell of #7. In other words, they should be opposite one another in position, touching one another.

  • Continue on, working sc in ch-1 sp of #7 and shell in ch-1 sp of #6 across


 

21

  • At the corner of #6 you work shell, ch 1

  • sc in corner sp of #7

  • ch 1

  • work remaining corner shell on #6

  • continue the side as before working (shell in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) across to corner, corner, and repeat

  • join #5 and #6 in the same manner as you did 6 and 7 and the others before this


 

22

Since I am only doing two rows for this sample, you have completed the joining of columns one and two

  • Continue around #5

  • When you get to the corner of #5, work a shell in the corner space (you already have one shell there)

  • [note: if you find your work buckles, you can work 2 dc in the corner spaces]

  • ch 1

  • work 1 dc in the join between squares 5 and 4

  • ch 1

  • work another shell in the same sp on #4 where your first shell is

    

23

  • continue across #4 working (ch 1, shell in next ch-1 sp) across to corner

 

24

  • when you get to the corner work (shell, ch 3, shell)
     

  • work up right side of squares 1-4 just as you did the bottom side of #4 and #5 (dc in the joins)
     

  • at square #1 work (shell, ch 3, shell) in upper right corner
     

  • ch 1
     

  • shell in next ch-1 sp across
     

  • join to top chain of beginning ch-3 of first shell of first corner made using either the invisible finish off, or another finishing method

Note: If you would like to work another round around the entire piece, at the joins you will not want to put complete shells in each corner and in the join as you will have too many stitches and this will make your work buckle. You will have to adjust your stitches. Options might be to put one dc in the corners and the join, or two in the corners and one in the join - whatever works best for you and keeps your work flat.


 

 

As noted above, this can be adjusted for any number of squares, any number of rows and columns, any joining method

LEFT HANDED VERSION

Number all the other columns from bottom to top. You get:

1	8	 12	

2	7	 11	

3	6 	 10	

4 	5 	 9	
Since there are no photos for this version, you can use a pencil to see how
you're going to join the squares.
Here are the written instructions.
You will start at square #1 and go all the way without lifting your pencil.

Start at the right top corner of square 1. Draw a line down the right side 
of 1 (between 1 and 8), then left (from right to left between square 1 and
2). - (If you had a hook and yarn, you would have edged two sides of square
1. )

Now go right with your pencil between squares 1 and 2 (Here you would join
those squares to each other. Square 1 has been edged, not square 2, but you
are "edging" it as you join them).

Go down with your pencil along the right side of 2, then left (between sq. 2
and 3) (You edged two sides of square 2)

Go right with your pencil between squares 2 and 3. (You joined those
squares)

Go down with your pencil along the right side of 3, then left between sq. 3
and 4. (You edged two sides of square 3)

Go right with your pencil between sq. 3 and 4. (You joined them)

Go down with your pencil along the right side of 4 - (You did ONE edge on
this square - the last square in the column.)

and then go all the way up to the left of 5, 6, 7 and 8. (If you're
crocheting now, you are joining those squares of the second column to the
first column that is already joined. If you look at your work, you see a
whole column joined together, (that is squares 1,2,3 and 4) , with four
squares (that is #5,6,7,8) each hanging attached to the first column only by
one side, and not yet attached to each other. 

(SECOND COLUMN) 

Draw with your pencil from left to right along the top of 8 then down the
right side of 8 between 8 and 12, and left between 8 and 7 (You edged THREE
sides of square #8). 

Go right with your pencil between squares 7 and 8 (You joined those squares)

Go down the right side of 7, then left between 7 and 6 (You edged two sides
of square 7)

Go right between 7 and 6 (You joined them)

Go down the right side of 6, and left between 6 and 5 (You edged two sides
of square 6)

Go right between 6 and 5. (You joined them) 

Go down the right side of 5 - You did ONE edge on this square)

And then go all the way up to the left of 9, 10, 11, 12 (Are you beginning
to see a pattern? You have two columns completely attached to each other,
and four squares hanging on the right attached only at one side.

Continue doing the THIRD column in the same way as (SECOND COLUMN).

When you get to where you are joining square 9 and 10, you will see that
every square has a pencil gridline between it, but the outside of the whole
blanket is edged at the top of 8 and 12 only, and on the right-hand side of
squares 10, 11 and 12. So continue where you are and draw with your pencil
down on the right side of #9, the bottom of 9, 5, 4, the left side of 4, 3,
2, 1 and the top of 1, ending back where you began, at the top right corner
of square 1. (If you're crocheting, you have just edged the outside
perimeter of the whole blanket, and are ready to do the border of your
choice around the blanket! 

 

 

Back to top

Rule

09/30/11


 

 

 

 Home

 Charity

 Crochet

 Links

tutorial.gif (3062 bytes)

The buttons above were my first at the Cabana. I keep them for sentimental reasons. :-)

NOTICE: Someone is using my old e-mail address to send out SPAM. Please note that if you receive any e-mail from crochetcabana at startrekmail dot com it is NOT from me. I no longer use this account and, to my knowledge, it has been discontinued.

Copyright 1997- 2010 by Crochet Cabana.   All rights reserved.
Crochet Cabana  created October 1997 (domain name purchased March 2001)
The Crochet Cabana Blog begun May 2010.
Crochet Cabana's Crafty Corral begun 11-7-2004.

My other web sites -  Sandra’s Backyard and SandraPetit.com