Learning to Crochet - Gauge

Gauge
update c2004 Sandra Petit, http://www.crochetcabana.com

Aha! You have found my weakness. I used to never, ever check gauge. I have made mostly afghan or other things where gauge doesn't matter--because you can't have an afghan that's too big now, can you? It's not that I didn't know how to check gauge but because I am basically realllyyyy lazy. LOL  I have been remiss, however, in not explaining to you this concept and am now correcting that little faux pas. (And besides, I have recently taken an interest in making a sweater and I'm thinking I'm going to need to check gauge. Sigh! Or I can just find someone who fits whatever size it turns out! Ha!)

Firstly, let me show you what happens if you DON'T check gauge.

If you click on the thumbnail you will be able to see the measurements more clearly. The green yarn was a thinner yarn and worked up a full quarter inch smaller using the same hook. Had this been squares, you could probably work around the quarter inch difference when joining. However, in a vertical or horizontal strip, you would be able to see the difference and it would ruin the looks of your piece.

In order to check the gauge you need to make a sample swatch of your pattern. Many patterns tell you to do this. If the pattern doesn't tell you how to make a swatch, but gives you a multiple, you could use the multiple and make a piece about 6" or so. You want to do enough so that you can measure it correctly but you don't want it to be a real pain to work with. Remember to do enough rows as well as stitches.

If it doesn't have a multiple, you can figure out the multiple yourself, or you can just work the pattern for a few rows and do the measuring afterwards. Of course, by this time you are not going to want to rip it back if the gauge is wrong. :-(  Some gauge notations give both row and number of stitches. It is not the same thing. You may have the correct of stitches across but not the correct number of rows, or vice versa.

The stitch gauge (horizontal) is more important than row because you can always add a row or two if needed. However, keep in mind that if there is a border involved, the number of stitches required for the side will be different if you have added rows.

I am looking at a pattern right now (okay, it was when I wrote this page) which gives the gauge as 3 shells and 5 rows = 4" so that means that you would measure from the left end of one shell and go through to the right hand of the third shell. If that measures 4" your gauge is right across. Then you would measure from the bottom of one row and go up 5 rows. If that measures 4" then you are right on again. However, one or the other might be incorrect. If so, then you have to figure out how to correct the problem if you want your project to be the same size as the pattern piece. You might have to change hook or you might have to work more loosely or more tightly, adjust the length of your stitch and so on.

Now--pay attention, if you are trying to determine your gauge when you are designing a pattern or just to see what your "normal" gauge is (Is there any such thing as normal?), you need to note whether you are measuring single crochet stitches or double crochet or what you consider to be the "pattern" you are measuring. It makes a big difference, obviously, as the size of your stitches are different.

If you are trying to determine gauge in order to work a specific piece, then the pattern designer should have taken this into consideration. As above, the designer indicated "shells" not stitches.

If you are doing, for example, ripple stitches, the hills will be higher. You would indicate possibly "measured from the top of a hill to the top of a valley" or whatever measurement you choose to use. Today, everybody does their own thing. Standards are the past. Even hooks made by different manufacturers might be slightly different sizes though their letter or number is the same. Also, you yourself might crochet tighter or more loosely with an aluminum versus a wooden hook. You should always give the hook size you are using as a general guide. Of course, the person working the pattern will adjust for their own tension. This is not to say that having standards is a bad thing. It would make things easier, but let's not live in fantasyland. Terminology is different in different locales also. With the rise of the Internet, we have friends from all over the world and we need to be courteous of their understanding of American phrases as well. What that has to do with gauge, I don't know but I thought I'd throw it in. Ha! You know how I ramble on....

Getting back on track...In the picture below (fig. 1), the measurement is 3 shells = 2 3/4"; 5 rows = 2 1/2" using an I hook In Figure 2, the  white numbers 1, 2, 3, show you the shells which equal 2.75 or 2 3/4" (same thing). The white one also begins the rows and is followed by the yellow numbers 2, 3, 4, and 5. Those are the 5 rows which equal 2 1/2".

   
Fig 1 and 2

In the picture below (figures 3), worked with a J hook, 9 dc and 5 rows = 3".  The white numbers in figure 4 illustrate the 5 rows.

 
Figures 4 and 5

Remember that a "pattern" may consist of mixed stitches. Rows may include both dc and sc rows or the stitches across may include bobbles or shells or whatever. Pay attention to what the designer considers necessary for correct gauge.

Also, I was only kidding about the sweater thing. It is important to work the correct gauge in making clothing because not only does your article have to fit the person you're making it for (or at least someone), the different parts, such as the sleeve, collar, button holes, etc. all have to mesh together into a whole piece that looks nice so gauge is important in those circumstances.

That's it! Go measure something!   

08/12/2005

The buttons above were my first at the Cabana. I keep them for sentimental reasons. :-)

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