Joining New Yarn/Changing Colors

Joining New Yarn/Changing Colors
update c2004 Sandra Petit, http://www.crochetcabana.com

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When I first thought of doing a page on changing colors and joining new yarn, I thought, "Well, this won't take too long." Aha! You knew better - why didn't anyone tell ME?  As I got into it more and more, I saw it was going to get complicated, but perhaps be one of the most useful pages on the site. I hope you are happy with the results and find it both entertaining and useful. I have rec'd several suggestions as to improvements and have implemented most of the them here so don't hesitate to suggest away.

The pretty things you see in books and magazines often use more than one color. You can completely change the look of a piece by changing the colors you use to create it. I often use patterns that I find quick and easy to make over and over again, but I use different colors. As a crocheter, I can tell that it is the same pattern, but you will find that not everyone will be able to tell. Try doing an afghan in solids, and then in variegated yarn - very different look. Here's an example of different afghans created using different colors. This particular one is still worked in stripes, so that part is the same, but the different colors give it a different look.

What are the advantages of working with different colors? Well, as above, you can use the same pattern over and over again and not get bored with the same color scheme. Since you are familiar with the pattern already, it is more relaxing than doing a new one where you have to count stitches and rows.

Also, many times what attracts you to a pattern is the way it looks in the magazine or book you are working from. If you use a different color or a variegated yarn instead of the solid pictured  (or vice versa), you may not be as happy with the outcome. On the other hand, you may like it even better. I personally use my own color schemes, though when I was a beginner I would never have dared to change the author's design. :-)

Obviously, if you are making an afghan for Aunt Lou and she hates yellow you don't want to give her a yellow afghan - but you love this pattern which is created using solid yellow yarn. Solution: simply find out Aunt Lou's favorite color and use it instead of the yellow. Sometimes the opposite occurs - a particular pattern which is done all in one color, will look even better using different colors - stripes or variegated. You will develop an eye for these things as you get more experience.

Another reason you might want to change colors, is so that you can use up all those little balls of leftover yarn you have from other projects. There are several scrap yarn leaflets and books available which have some lovely patterns, all using small amounts of yarn. If you don't want to work a pattern, you can just do one of the easiest scrap yarn afghans there is - make a chain as long as you want the afghan to be, pull out your little balls of yarn and work until you run out, then add another ball, continuing until your afghan is as large as you want it to be. Small children will love the variety of this style. Another option is to do single rows of each color, to give it a more uniform look. If you don't have enough yarn for an entire row, you can just continue in another color, or you can rip back that small portion and use it for a first round of a granny square.

Now that you have seen different ways you can use color to your own advantage, let's learn how to do it. The same procedure will be followed whether you are changing to a new color because the pattern calls for a color change or if you are doing so because you have finished a skein and need to join a new skein (same dye lot, of course).

We will not be covering carrying colors at the back of your work. That's because I ordinarily don't do carrying - except for the one exception below which is carrying along the end side of a row. I have enough trouble keeping track of one skein or two if I'm doing a double strand. (By the way, if you ARE doing a double strand piece and one of your strands ends but the other does not, you can use this method to join your new yarn while keeping the old one until it runs out. Then you won't have two strands to sew into the same spot, which would make it more bulky.)

Okay, you have a project you are working on and it says to start with your MC (main color). Work two rows and then change to CC (contrasting color) or perhaps it says Color A if there are more than two colors. You run to your computer and get on the 'net and look up this tutorial. Ha! No, no, no. PRINT it out so you can refer to it when you need it or SAVE it in your word processor. (Highlight, copy and paste) Any pictures will have to be saved separately and then placed in your document. Of course the links won't work unless you're online. Duh. :-) One day I may do a print copy or pdf file for the tutorials, but I have not had time or inclination to do this yet.

There are a few different methods you can use to change colors. First, it is important to know WHERE you are changing colors. Is it in the middle of your row, or the end? Back or front? When doing a piece that has a definite front and back, I try to sew all my ends in on the back. If you are on the front when you need to change colors, just thread your cut strand onto your needle and pull it through to the back. Of course, I try to avoid sewing as many ends as possible in the first place because I am totally lazy. LOL

Before I go any further, I have just discovered a new way of joining called the Russian Join. I had never heard of it before and I have not tried it yet, but to be thorough I want to include it here. To take a look, please go to:   HappyGhan Russian Joining

Also I will mention that most experienced crocheters will tell you to never knot your two strands when you change color. There is a reason for this. When you knot, it leaves a little hard bump. This can be distressing if one has sensitive skin. Some say that this "wears" on the yarn more as well. However, I have to admit to you that I occasionally do loosely tie (not knot) end strands together because I am paranoid about them coming undone when I'm swinging that afghan back and forth for each row. When I change color in the middle of a row, I try to resist the urge to tie. I find it easier since I use the Invisible Finish Off. *grin*

Important note: When you are getting ready to change yarns, if you are going to finish off that original color, be sure you leave a long strand of yarn. Do not cut an inch from the end and think that is enough. You need a minimum of 4" but I would strongly suggest an even longer end. The reasons for this are discussed on my hints page.

Note: Changing colors within a granny square is covered on this page.

Changing colors in the middle of a row
Method 1 :
About 4" before you need to change color, lay your new color across your work (Fig. 1) and crochet over it as you go. Then when you are at the point where you need to change, just clip off the old color and continue with the new one. You will have to hold the new yarn with your right hand while continuing to hold your old yarn with your left. It takes a bit of maneuvering. This is neat because then you don't have to sew that end in later.

You can even crochet over your old color by bringing it up one row and crocheting over it on the next row (if you are using that color). You need to do this carefully so it doesn't show too much. You might even thread it and weave it through the stitch above it. Note: If your color is very different - like the green and white I'm using here - then you may be able to see that old color on the back side.  (If you look closely at Fig. 4 you can see the green just a little - it shows up more on the other side (Fig. 2A) but if you are continuing in that color, it's not too much of a problem.)  This method would work very well if you are joining the same yarn as in the case where you're doing a one-color project but have used up your skein.

Method 2:  Begin to make your stitch in the old color, then join the new color (also leaving a 4-6” piece at the beginning of your work) just before finishing the stitch. In other words, if you are making a single crochet you would insert hook into stitch, yo and pull through (with old color), yo with new color and pull through remaining two loops, finishing the stitch. Tighten slightly by pulling gently on the two threads. Don't pull so tightly that this stitch looks smaller than the ones you've already completed.

Work a few stitches in the new color and then go back and tie the two loose ends together so they don't come undone, especially if you don't intend to finish the project that day. You don’t have to knot them, just tie loosely. Some crocheters prefer not to tie the loose ends together as it may make a small bump. (note: If this is the end of a row, your border will cover any bumps.)

Here's the change from green to white (Fig. 6-8):

Changing colors at the end of a row:
Method3: When you get to the end of your row, you will join your new yarn using Method 2 above (start your stitch in the old color and finish in the new). Clip your yarn about 6" from the end and after you've done a few stitches on your next row, go back and loosely tie the two ends. This will be helpful later when you go to sew the ends in, and also will keep it from undoing while you continue working.

If you change colors at the end of a row, your border should hide any bumps that remain after you sew your ends in. It is important that you leave a sufficient length whether you tie it or not, so your work will not unravel in washing. This is particularly important in children’s items which are washed more often. Later, you will come back and sew those ends into your work so they won’t be seen, snipping the excess.

Method 4: No-sew methods

I'm very excited to be allowed to introduce you to the next methods which my friend, Dave, shared with me and gave me permission to use here. The terminology is all mine and any errors are mine too. Dave only gets credit for having the great idea, not the mistakes!

Now for those of you who, like me, hate sewing in those nasty ends, our own Dave, the Crochetman (http://serendipity.gpvm.com/ ) has told me that one can carry yarn up the side of your work. I took this newfound knowledge and ran with it. Though we differ in some of the aspects, the basic idea is his. :-)

There are a few particulars you need to know. The first methods are for projects where you are using 2 colors and changing every 2 rows. Also, Method 4A would be used when you are working with single crochet rows. Method 4B would be used with other stitches, because they do not begin in the first stitch and the locked stitch would be more evident.  Each method is labeled so you will know what the preferred use would be.

Just to make it easy, let's say we're using red as Color A (or MC for main color) and white as Color B (or CC for contrasting color) for Method 4A. Unfortunately, my scanner thinks red is more rusty. Pretend it's red.

Method 4A
2 row, 2 color pattern worked in single crochet, changing color at end of row
When you get to the end of your row and need to change color, complete the first half of the stitch with red (current color, color A or MC), drop red, pick up white (new color, Color B or CC) complete the stitch, chain 1 and turn. DO NOT clip red.  Just let it lay there.

Take your red, bring it forward and up, laying it over the work between chain-1 and the first stitch. (Fig. 9)

Fig. 9 - Bring red forward and up, between ch-1 and first sc

Work your first stitch over the dropped yarn. This locks the yarn in place. (Fig. 10)  Dave's hint: If you move the yarn around the work instead of merely turning the work, the 2 colors won't twist together. In fact, if you turn the work counterclockwise after row 1 of the color and clock wise at the color change, the yarns shouldn't twist at all. I laid a skein on either side of me.

Figure 10 - work first sc over the dropped yarn

Do not continue to crochet over the dropped color (red). Let it fall to the back of your work. Continue to work the row in white, chain 1 and turn. Work another row in white. After you have worked the second row in your new color (white), you come back to your dropped color (red) which is now in the front of your work.Work the first half of your single crochet. (Fig. 11) Pull the red up and to the left so that you can yarn over and pull through, finishing that sc. (Fig. 12)  It should be barely visible.

You can adjust it slightly by pulling on your two threads very lightly. Don't stretch your yarn and don't pull it so tightly that it bunches up. If you are doing dc rows, then there will be an obvious piece there because dc begins in the second stitch, not the first, which is why I suggest going with Method 4B below in that case. However, if you don't mind it being a little visible there, this method is fine too.

Method 4B:
2 row, 2 color pattern worked in double crochet. (Since I already scanned in the pictures using white and variegated yarn, we'll use that for this method, okay?)
When you get to the end of your row and need to change color, complete the first half of the dc with variegated (current color), drop variegated, pick up white (new color), complete the stitch and chain 2 or 3. DO NOT clip variegated.  Just let it lay there.

Work your row in white, do your turning chains and work back along the row. When you get to the end of that row, you should be back to the place where you dropped the variegated. Work the first half of your last stitch, drop white, and pick up variegated. There will be a small loop along the side of your piece. When you do your border, you will sew over this loop

Figure 9 - loops from thread that has been carried

Using this method, you will have only 3 strands to sew in (unless you run out of yarn in the middle of your work, or find a knot or for some other reason have to cut and re-start). You will have your beginning strand from your foundation chain (bottom pink(variegated) strand - slip knot yarn strand - in Figure 10), the beginning strand of white (middle white strand - first joining - in Figure 10) when you made your first join, and the very last strand from when you finish off (not pictured). Cool, huh? Remember that this will only work well if you are using a pattern which changes color every two rows. Note that the variegated (white and blue) strand in Figure 10  is the strand that is currently being carried.

There is a 4C (2 color, 4 row) and 4D (3 color, 1 row each) but I haven't gotten to those yet. Okay, I may never get to them!

Method 5: changing colors every row at the end of a row:
Okay, I have discovered (re-discovered?) another idea. I have been working on a scrap yarn afghan, from the book The Ultimate Book of Scrap Afghans by ASN. The one I am making is Bright Memories on p. 54. By the way, it uses a multiple of 8 + 7. :-)  I chose to chain 127, rather than the 183 in the pattern and used an I hook. The resulting piece was 45" wide. Just a little extra info for you. :-)

Anyhow, this pattern calls for a change in yarn EVERY row. I never would have done this before, because I am so lazy and hate to sew in ends. However, NOW I am armed with this new method of changing yarns. Aha! It doesn't eliminate ends but it does cut them down some.

Here's what to do:
When you get to the end of the row and need to change color, you will change the color just as in the beginning of method 2. Start your stitch in the old color and finish it in the new one, make your chains and turn. You are not going to carry that old color because you're through with it - for now at least. You can cut it now but cut it far from the end, about a foot if you've got enough yarn.

Now bring the old color up and to the left, just like you did with the new color in method 4a. Lock your stitch in place by laying that color between your chain-1 and your first sc. Then, you have choices. You can just crochet over that strand now if you want to. Or you can do what I've been doing which is sew over a couple of stitches, then thread a needle with my yarn and sew it into the front loop of a few stitches. Why I started doing this is because in my pattern, there are some open spaces where crocheting over the strand would not work. You might say, well you're sewing ends in aren't you? Well, technically, yes, but by doing it here, I am making it more secure since I will be crocheting over the loops where I've placed my strand and the strand is not just laying over the stitches but rather inside of them. Also, there won't be so many strands left over at the end.

Did you know you can always sew those ends in as you go along? You don't HAVE to wait until the end to do it. :-) I knew that, but I rarely take the time. Then I look at all those ends and go....yikes! That won't be fun.

The Bright Memories pattern is really pretty. You should give it a try. You don't even have to change colors EVERY row if you don't want to. If you have a large ball of yarn, you can do several rows in one color. The long stitch has to be done in white though to get the correct effect.
 

08/12/05

The buttons above were my first at the Cabana. I keep them for sentimental reasons. :-)

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