JOINING SQUARES

JOINING SQUARES
Update c2004 Sandra Petit, http://www.crochetcabana.com

On this page:
Whipstitch
Backstitch
Mattress Stitch
Slip Stitch Joining
 

This page may take a long time to load due to the many pictures.
Please click on thumbnails for larger view

Joining Squares - General Info

IMPORTANT: When you join, use the same material to join that you used to crochet the piece. If you used cotton yarn, then use crochet cotton to join. If you used acrylic, then use acrylic to join. DO NOT use sewing thread or embroidery thread to join your crocheted items (unless that is what you used to make them.)

I have gotten a number of requests asking how to join squares. I thought I would give a very simple listing of the different methods available. Of course, anything that works for you and looks like you want it to look, is quite acceptable. You, after all, are the designer of your piece. These joinings (seams) are meant for simple squares, not those with fancy edgings.

Before joining squares, you should put a round of single crochet on your squares using the same color for each final round. This will make it much easier to join, using that matching color. (This is not necessary for granny squares though it certainly doesn't hurt.)

If you have a number of squares to join, you might make long strips and then sew those strips together.

You can put squares together with wrong sides facing, or right sides facing, depending on the look you want. You could also lay the squares side by side and work the stitches on top where you can actually see what is happening as you go.

Be sure to line your stitches up. If you crocheted 3 stitches in your corners, you might begin with the center stitch of each square to join. Also, if your squares were done at different times, or are for a friendship afghan where different people have contributed to the whole, you may have to adjust for larger or smaller pieces. You might have to skip a stitch in some places or put two stitches in another. Skipping a stitch may leave a hole in your piece so you want to avoid this as much as possible. Try to get your squares to line up for a pleasing finishing effect. Of course, if you are making a "leftover" style afghan where the squares are not meant to line up, that is okay too.

For the pictures in the general methods (not join-as-you-go) I've made some sample strips (not squares). I wrote up the directions for the little strip, with pictures, and instructions for making the border on the Border page. If you're unsure about how to border (using simple sc), then go to Borders.

Another great site with instructions and pictures of joining methods is About.com. If the link below ceases to work, just go to http://crochet.about.com   and do a search.
http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa010999.htm

Here's a picture of a project I did where I joined each square using a different seaming method.

You can see that the joining does make a difference in the overall appearance, particularly on the back. Of course, you would use the same yarn to join so it would not be as visible as it is here.

Joining using a needle

Whipstitch Joining

Put two squares on top of each other, right sides facing. I like to whipstitch in the back loops only (BLO) so I will have a pretty ridge on the right side of my squares. If you do not want this ridge, simply whipstitch through both loops.

Cut a long piece of yarn, about 18". Don't make your pieces too long as the constant rubbing as you sew it through puts stress on the yarn. (Don't we have enough stress in our lives? Hee Hee. Don't want to stress our yarn!) Thread through a large eye needle. I like the #16 needles. Starting at the same point on both squares (right hand corner works well), go in on the side farthest from you and come out closest to you, leaving a tail of about 4". I personally like to go back through that same hole again to secure yarn.

You'll continue in this same vein, enter through the back and coming out through the front (blo) all the way to the end of the row. You may sew over the tail as you go or sew it in later if you'd rather. When you get to the end, I like to go around twice in that last stitch as well to secure it and then cut the thread about 6 " from the end. You will weave that thread in later. Note: If you don't want to sew over the ends as you go, you might bring your thread over to the left as it keeps getting caught in the hanging threads and is just a pain.

Be careful as you are sewing that you are not missing any stitches. This is especially important if you are working with squares that are made the same. You don't want them to be off. You will have to fudge a bit in between squares so you don't have holes.

Backstitch Joining

Place project right sides together, thread needle with matching yarn. Secure yarn. The way I do this is to insert hook in spot where you want to join. Pull needle through both pieces, leaving a 6" tail. Reinsert hook in first piece and pass through again. Then begin the backstitch. * From front insert needle through both loops of both pieces, being careful not to split the yarn. Pull through. Skip next stitch, and insert needle from back to front through both loops on both pieces and pull through to front. Now insert needle from front to back into skipped stitch. Repeat from * until you have joined all you need to join. If the piece has not been bordered and has "rough" edges, just estimate the width of a stitch and go in and out as outlined above.

Here are some examples. They are not in successive order, but random samplings.

Using a recent Christmas project, here's what it looks like completed:

I pulled the edges apart to show you this. When relaxed, you can just barely see the white through the red.

This is the back that you can't see as you're working, seen from the wrong side

Mattress Stitch Joining

This is a tricky one to explain and to understand without someone standing there to show you. You will find it mentioned in many knitting tutorials, but not many crochet ones. It is supposed to be virtually invisible, especially using same color yarn. There will be a small ridge on the wrong side. Useful in sewing garment parts together.

Place project with right sides facing you, edges together (not facing one another as in other methods but lying next to one another so that you see both right sides). Thread needle with matching yarn. Secure yarn through both sides at the edge where you intend to join. With needle pointing up, place the point into the last st and take a small st, leaving yarn loose. Go to the opposite piece and pick up the corresponding row. Return to the first side, enter the last point of exit and pick up a st. Be sure to keep the needle pointing up to the top of the work, rather than to the side of the work. Tighten yarn in seam after picking up 3 or 4 sts. Yarn must be tight enough to disappear but not enough to shorten seam.

   Joining Page 1 | page 2   |  page 3

Back to top

08/12/05


 

The buttons above were my first at the Cabana. I keep them for sentimental reasons. :-)

NOTICE: Someone is using my old e-mail address to send out SPAM. Please note that if you receive any e-mail from crochetcabana@startrekmail.com it is NOT from me. I no longer use this account and, to my knowledge, it has been discontinued.